Mumbai Food: It’s Thai cuisine invasion at the South Mumbai eatery

With Soi 69, Bandra's Blue team offers classic Thai food in Breach Candy but needs to pep up its drinks menu and plating

Mumbai Food: It's Thai cuisine invasion at the South Mumbai eatery

The Blue created waves when it launched in 2017, filling up the bite-sized space with patrons who came back only hungry for more. Started by chef Seefah Ketchaiyo and Karan Bane, it closed doors in December only to spring up on Hill Road last weekend with a new identity with chef’s namesake Seefah.

The buzzing eatery had bagged the award in the Best Asian Restaurant category at the inaugural Guide Food Awards last year, beating some heavyweights in the process. When the chef couple took their A-game to Breach Candy, we dropped by for a tasting.

Honey toast

Replacing the plush Doppio Bar, the space is done up in red and blue suave chairs with golden rims to match the Buddha on the wall. The lanterns dropping from the ceiling add a dim yellow glow to the space, transporting you to Soi69, a side street famous for food and drinks in Thailand. A sushi counter has been assigned and the bar is at the far end.

The ever-smiling chef Ketchaiyo is sprightly on the floor, taking care of guests and popping into the kitchen at regular intervals to keep an eye on the backend. Bane is engrossed in rolling sushis, and as our server settles us into our seats, he recommends kitsune (Rs 600) a whiskey sake with peach and lemongrass, and laters baby (Rs 600), a tequila watermelon concoction, and we nod in affirmation. The drinks, sadly, are overtly sweet for our liking.

Miso Soup

We begin our Thai sojourn with a deep-fried chicken (Rs 400) which sets off firecrackers of spicy chilli sauce and lemongrass round up. Next, we try a spicy prawn lemongrass salad (RS 400), which breathes tongues of bold fire, and craftily soothes the palate with sweetness.

The miso soup, with seaweed and tofu swimming in it, is comforting and warm.

Spicy prawn lemongrass salad

For mains, we order spicy mince chicken basil (RS 500) and a garlic rice (Rs 450). The fried mince adds a fuller texture to the bite and the freshness of basil is expectedly sharp. The bland pad Thai (Rs 450) is a let-down and we miss the boldness of flavours we encountered on a trip to Koh Chang. It also misses the nutty texture.

Deep fried chicken

The greenhouse California roll (Rs 800) comes fattened with cream cheese, avocado, asparagus, cucumber, and yuzu mayo. It is how the Americans eat their sushi — rich and creamy. We miss the side of soy to cut the richness. Our dessert is honey toast (Rs 450) with a dollop of blueberry ice cream and a black sesame ice cream. The toast is like a double mattress, drenched in caramel, honey, and peanut crumb. The food doesn’t disappoint, and the SoBo crowd will surely be happy to cut short their trek to the burbs for their douse of Thai craving.

Green house California roll

At: Second floor, 201, Bhulabhai Desai Road, Hubtown Skybay, Breach Candy.
Time: 12 pm to 3 pm, 7 pm to 11.30 pm
Call: 9821764000

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