Mumbai Food: Eatery in Kalina serves value for money fare

A popular no-frills eatery re-opens in a larger space to serve VFM fare

We believe that the most important lesson our generation has learnt is that basic is good; enough for fashion labels to have a sub-category of basic apparel and Instagram to source gifs and stickers that say "basic". This (should) transcend to food as well, because at the end of the day, nothing beats sasta and tikau. And so, Kalina's Chindian eatery, King Chilli, has risen above the glitzy culinary offerings of BKC that are high on the glam quotient but not easy on the pocket.

We have been ordering in from what is easily one of the neighbourhood's favourite haunts for months. But a week ago, we learnt that it has launched in a new avatar with a larger dining area not far from the space it started in five years ago. So, on a Sunday night, we finally step out to pay the place a visit.

At the corner of St Mary's Chowk, a brand new shade covers the space. Potted plants line the shack-like eatery and a tawdry magenta curtain, which we identify — having spotted hawkers selling it for '150 at the roadside Monday market — serves as the door. Inside, chairs and tables that evoke the memory of Nilkamal furniture makes for the seating space, along with three booths with slightly plusher sofas that offer some privacy but are rickety all the same.

We join a queue that comprises Catholic aunties in their Sunday frocks and roadside Romeos in their Gully-Boy-inspired garb waiting outside the restaurant. The crowd is substantial, but fast moving, so we get a table in five minutes.

Tom yum

Our partner, who is whining about a sore throat, calls for a tom yum soup (Rs 139) while we order the crackling spinach chicken (Rs 285) and kung pao potato (Rs 174) to begin with, and a chicken in chilly oyster sauce (Rs 295), veg pad Thai noodles (Rs 190) and chicken North East pot rice (Rs 249) for the mains.

Kung pao potato

We find how nothing about the tom yum soup being Thai cute: adrak replaces galangal, nimbu takes the place of kaffir lime and its identifiable piquant broth-y flavour has transformed into a chatpata and fiery soup with a strong kick of spice. The addition of finely chopped dhaniya is equally endearing. Tom yum or not, it works. The chicken appetiser is enjoyable in that the meat itself is juicy and hot. The crackling spinach that it comes with is nice, too, but perhaps could have been elevated with a stronger dose of garlic. We relish the kung pao potatoes and find the use of wedges quite cool: it adds a certain girth to the dish. The lightly toasted whole cashews lend a mild sweetness, marrying the dish with its inherent tanginess.

Chicken in oyster chilli sauce 

The pot rice has a smoky hotness that is likely to have come from the overuse of chilli powder. This dish leaves two out of the four people at the table gasping for breath. We are still undecided about the preparation and could only safely say that we did not hate it. The pad thai noodles are a slight let-down having been overcooked this time. However, the chicken in oyster chilly sauce, a staple for us from the eatery, helps liven up the noodles.

We eat quickly despite the shortcomings of the mains and that's where King Chilli actually passes the test. It's the kind of eatery that may have a few botch-ups, but will remain the go-to place (as is evident from the queue even as we leave the restaurant an hour and a half later) for Kalina's humble diners, including us. What we mean is, where else could we have afforded an end-of-the-month double date for a total cost of Rs 1,522 and take home doggy bags? Only a sasta and tikau place, right?

TIME 11.30 am to 3.30 pm; 7 pm to 11.30 pm
AT King Chilli, near St Mary's Chowk, Kalina, Santacruz East.
CALL 9833487217

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King Chilli didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals

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