Chef Floyd Cardoz travels from Manhattan to Kamala Mills with select fare from his popular NY restaurant for a two-day brunch pop-up
The brunch spread. Pics Courtesy/Heena Punwani
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It has been over three months since homegrown chef Floyd Cardoz returned to New York — the city that made him a star with the accolade-winning modern Indian restaurant Tabla (1998-2011) — to launch Paowalla, christened after the modest bread sellers, who would deliver pao (Portuguese: loaf) at the chef’s Goa home twice a day. Located in the heart of SoHo in Manhattan, the restaurant celebrates Indian flavours and its breads, something that has impressed foodies and critics alike (if Pete Wells’ review for The New York Times this week is anything to go by).
Chef Floyd Cardoz
To give city foodies a taste of its bestsellers, the celebrated chef will travel with a selection of Paowalla dishes for a brunch pop-up at The Bombay Canteen (TBC), next weekend. “Yash (Bhanage, partner), Thomas (Zacharias, executive chef) and I have wanted to offer a brunch menu to Mumbai for a while now. The dishes that I am bringing down are those that my American and Indian guests in New York enjoy eating at brunch,” says the chef, who is partner at the Lower Parel restaurant too.
Dosa Waffle, a creation by Cardoz that substitutes the traditional wheat flour batter with South Indian dosa batter, is part of the pop-up too
Cool off with kokum
The brunch offers over 30 dishes with Paowalla selections like Choriz Pulao Omelet, Earl Grey Chai Sticky Bun, Eggplant Pe Eedu and Kokum Sol Kadhi Ceviche, where a raw, chilled red snapper is doused in the cooling coastal drink. “My creations are always inspired by travels or dishes someone cooks for me. When I visit Mumbai, we make it a point to dine at a Konkani restaurant and Yash always orders sol kadhi. It is perfect for a fish ceviche since it is a balance of fat, acidity and spice,” says Cardoz. Meanwhile, Avocado And Refried Rajma Chilaquiles, served with crispy theplas, bhavnagri mirch salsa and fried egg, is a Mexican version inspired by the Gujarati Dal Dhokri. You can wash them down with boozy concoctions like Tamarind Margarita and Raspberry Sharbat. Though not fixed, the pricing of the brunch menu will be along the lines of TBC pricing.
Bacon And Cheddar Cheese Naan
Hollandaise from SoHo
While TBC’s kitchen relies solely on local produce, it will stock imports like avocado and Hollandaise sauce (features in Ghee Roast Benedict) for the pop-up. “At Paowalla, I use spices and flavourings (tamarind, jaggery, ginger, Kashmiri chilli and turmeric) from India but rely on local fruits and vegetables,” says the chef, who has already changed 60 per cent of the menu based on the seasons in USA. Currently, he has replaced okra, peas and asparagus with pumpkins, potatoes and sweet potatoes. The team has plans to bake fresh pao at the restaurant; however, you can also tuck into Charred Sweet Potato Parantha, and Bacon and Cheddar Cheese Naan, a Paowalla signature.
From the home kitchen
The menu also offers creations by Zacharias like Sikkimese Fish Momos, Kheema Pao Juicy Lucy, Tava Shrimp & Calamari Kothu Roti and Pav Bhaji Porterhouse Roll. When we ask if he plans to take TBC to another city, Cardoz replies, “I believe there is a market for The Bombay Canteen outside Mumbai since the menu has been widely accepted. But we haven’t thought of opening another outlet yet.” And what’s the secret behind the success of both restaurants? “We have made both of them accessible and acceptable. They are not fine-dines, expensive or offer only tasting menus. Guests can come in as they are, order and share food with friends. The concept of sharing works,” he sums up.
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