Juhu's latest entrant makes an honest but steep attempt to bring India on your plate with jamun martini and recheado tikka
Motichur and Sitaphal Rabdi Parfait
ADVERTISEMENT
We can almost hear the prayer flags fluttering in the cold winds of Spiti Valley as a soothing Tibetan melody welcomes us into +91, a two-week-old restaurant near Juhu Circle. We are instantly charmed by the spacious restaurant's art gallery-meets-museum decor. It includes kitschy lanterns and barnis (pickle jars) that are a throwback to the summers when our grandmother would store homemade chhunda in them.
A wall is adorned with an installation of quirky matchboxes from Japan and India (there's Magic Head too). Another features glass cases that hold various artefacts, including a ceramic bust of a royal with a parrot cage popping out of his head. Curious, we try to read its placard just as a large group walks in and settles on cushioned wicker chairs by the marble-top tables, and blocks our view. Grudgingly, we turn to the menu.
Onion Bhanavala
Code of conduct
From Andhra-style Rasam to Allahabad Beetroot Tikki, Parsi Style Sali Boti, Gondoraj Duck, Kashmiri Gushtaba Goat Curry and Cumin Sikkim Red Rice, the menu covers most of India, though restricted to popular fare. Each dish is accompanied by the area code of the city where it originates from.
We begin with Maharashtrian-style Onion Bhanavala (Rs 350) comprising a stack of non-greasy onion fritters dotted with flecks of dry garlic and coriander chutney. The crisp coating gives way to gooey onion stuffing with a pungent kick from the flakes. It resembles the kothimbir vadi, except a richer version.
Recheado Murgh Tikka
Discover Vengurla
We move on to Recheado Murg Tikka (Rs 525) starring succulent, boneless chicken pieces marinated in the delicious Goan red masala that packs in flavours of peppercorns, cloves and garlic. The charred edges lend them a scrumptious, smoked aftertaste. We wash these down with Jambhul Karvand Martini ('450), a hat-tip to the sleepy town of Vengurla in south Konkan. We can taste the grainy texture of the fresh, sweet and slight tart java plum as the concoction, infused with its pulp, caresses our palate.
Rave over rabdi
From the mains, we're excited to order Kashmiri Gushtaba Goat Curry, but it's unavailable. So, we settle for Rajasthani Laal Maas (Rs 625) with Rosemary and Olive Naan (Rs 95). We also call for a glass of Majjiga (Rs 250), as a cautionary extinguisher in case our taste buds catch fire from the traditional, fiery mutton curry. However, this version of laal maas is underwhelming, though the mutton chunks are extremely tender. We mop up the runny, mildly-spiced gravy with olive-studded crisp naan. The Andhra-style, thick and spiced buttermilk is refreshing.
For dessert, we dig into the rich Motichur and Sitaphal Rabdi Parfait (Rs 375) served in a margarita glass. The base of sugar-soaked motichur laddoo is layered with thick pistachio-specked sitaphal rabdi, topped with a crisp, ghee-fried tuile. The creamy rendition engulfs our senses.
While the hefty bill makes us wary of an encore, we hear a guest chide a waiter, "Every four days, I am here, and have tried most things on the menu. Please make something new."
In pictures: 35 must-visit food outlets in Mumbai