The lyrical, crackling sound of mango wood burning in a massive, three-tiered grill welcomes us into Izaya -- Farrokh Khambata's latest offering, with indoor and air-conditioned outdoor seating, which stands between his other outfits, Amadeus and Café At The NCPA (both are undergoing revamps). The space spells class, with plush seating, in muted tones of grey and pink, and cute sake flasks dotting a polished wooden countertop. However, its pièce de résistance is the Japanese robatayaki grill, which derives its name from an old-style slow-grilling method used by north Japanese fisherfolk.

Sa khoo. Pics/Atul Kamble