Peppered with East Indian, Goan, Koli and Mangalorean food, a Pali Naka fish mecca's menu changes after 18 years
Guisado De Galinha (Chicken Stew). Pics/Sneha Kharabe
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It was a change that took 18 years to happen.
The Bandra restaurant serving Goan food and seafood specialties, Soul Fry (SF), has finally decided to upgrade its menu. “We’ve organised many successful regional food festivals here. These cuisines are doing really well in the city, so we thought why not serve food from our neighbourhood communities,” says owner and chef, Meldan D’Cunha. A bigger reason, he confesses, is that he wants his regulars to expand their food palate. “They all have that one favourite dish, and refuse to try out something else. So, for the first week, we will offer a complimentary dish from the revised menu alongwith their order,” he adds.
Ghee Dal Fry
We go in for a preview before the new menu launches, and are told stories of how the final dishes were decided after two months of trials at D’Cunha’s home and features East Indian, Koli, Goan, Mangalorean and Portuguese dishes. D’Cunha sourced the recipes from friends (East Indian), sister (Portuguese), a fisherwoman in Mahim (Koli) and from his staff (Maharashtrian).
Pork Sambaray
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Soul Fry is known for its seafood dishes and the new menu serves this legacy well.
We enjoy the Caldeirada (Rs 390); fresh rawas tossed in a cream sauce and drizzled with olive oil. The fish is tender and has a light, creamy and herb-y flavour; capsicums and onions give it a contrasting texture. The Yeti Fry (Rs 390) reminds us of the Prawns Koliwada we snack on at Janata Bar down the road. The prawns are juicy and crunchy with a spicy batter and come with a fresh minty chutney and our personal favourite, a lasooni coconut chutney.
Caldeirada (Fish Stew)
Things get messy with the Crab Xec Xec (rate changes daily). The traditional Goan speciality is rich, not too spicy, and has a fragrant coconut gravy that we mop up with soft pao. The crab, once we crack into it, is soft and juicy.
Goa Sausage Chilli Fry
The Portuguese dish, Guisado De Galinha (Rs 320), spells comfort food. The flavourful stew has chicken sausages and macaroni is in a creamy, cheesy sauce. The East Indian Pork Sambaray (Rs 290) is a delicious, spicy curry made using traditional bottle masala.
Our favourite vegetarian dish is the Ghee Dal Fry (Rs 160). D’Cunha jokes about how most Goan Catholics cannot get their dal right. This dish, however, is perfect. The thick dal has a generous dose of ghee with browned onion garnish giving it a caramelised flavour. It pairs beautifully with pao.
Taste test
Any Goan worth their salt will tell you the true test of the preparation of Goan Sausages, that seemingly simple dish that very few get right. Soul Fry serves a decent version. The Goan Sausage Fry (R390) has chunky pieces of spicy meat that crumble at touch and get a nice contrasting texture from tomatoes, capsicums and onions. The sausage meat is dry though; we would’ve liked more oil (fat) in it.
The Stir Fried Lamb Chops (R330) are made with Kashmiri chillies and while the meat is tender, it needs more seasoning. The spicy Mangalorean gassi, best enjoyed with chicken, gets a vegetarian touch with the Batate Gassi (Rs 190). The gravy is mild and creamy but the potatoes lack flavour, or may be we just miss the chicken.
In addition to their new menu, the bar will now sell certain alcohol at wholesale rates.
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