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Cook with love, like our grandmothers did

Three Michelin stars and the top spot on the World's 50 Best Restaurants, but chef Mauro Colagreco's feet are firmly on the ground

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Chef Mauro Colagreco.Pic/ Bipin Kokate

Chef Mauro Colagreco.Pic/ Bipin Kokate

At the press conference to announce a pop up by Mirazur, the three-Michelin-starred restaurant from Menton, France, its celebrated chef, Mauro Colagreco, reminds us of an overseas film director. He works hard to explain the subtle nuances of his craft and product in an unfamiliar language to a foreign audience, where a majority haven’t even tried his food. Colagreco’s words are measured and wise as he speaks of his respect for the diversity of Indian food, how he worked for three years to get the plastic-free certification for Mirazur, and about challenging the rules of working with and merging different cuisines.

“Food is an emotion, it’s like love, and [you] can’t define emotions as French or Argentine. You cook for others, with love, like our grandmothers did,” says Colagreco, who helms the kitchen at his world-famous eatery. In Mumbai for the Masters of Marriott series in association with Culinary Culture, Colagreco is both nervous and excited to present a nine-course meal including his signature dishes such as smoked eel and caviar tartlet at The St Regis Mumbai. In a tête-à-tête over masala chai, Colagreco discusses the importance of keeping calm in the kitchen and not letting a ‘rockstar’ status affect your cooking.

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