This Onam, relish the traditional Kerala Sadya feast by this Mumbai chef

A city-based Keralite cloud kitchen introduces a wholesome sadya that champions local produce and everyday ingredients in a nutrient-packed meal

This Onam, chef Sara Jacob Nair brings us superfoods in a traditional yet innovative sadya that highlights the nourishing qualities of each ingredient. But if you’re thinking about kale and avocados, you’re wrong. This writer would like to think of chef Nair’s first edition of Superfood UnSadya as a 101 lesson in rediscovering the ‘superfood’ elements of local produce. She tells us, “I don’t remember my mum and grandmum buying exotic vegetables. They always cooked what was local and seasonal. They respected what was available, and made a great dish out of it.”

The Nair on Fire sadya uses traditional recipes along with the chef’s own twists which use local produce that suit Kerala preparations as well as introducing new vegetables to the cuisine. These include broccoli, sweet potato, black rice, ragi and moringa leaves that aren’t traditionally used in Kerala dishes. “For instance, I’ve used broccoli in a cutlet, which elevates the taste of the vegetable and adds a much-needed crunch to the sadya once the chips and papad are done. I fell in love with paneer when I came to Mumbai, and so I’ve also added a bit of paneer to increase the nutrient density of the dish,” she explains. Similarly, chef Nair has trumped the pulissery with moringa leaves, a great source of vitamins, calcium, iron, and amino acids. The kootu curry, usually prepared with banana and yam, has been reinforced with paduval and sweet potato which she says, is a match made in heaven as the sweetness of the shakarkandi complements the unique flavour of the paduval. 

(From left) Non-vegetarian and vegetarian festive spreads

Borrowing recipes from non-vegetarian dishes, the tendli — usually eaten with prawns — is substituted with carrot. She continues, “The astringent flavour of the tendli combines well with the sweetness of caramelised carrot. And we can achieve the [flavour] notes of prawns from the carrot in this dish, too.” There are non-vegetarian options as well with a chicken dish that comes in an amaranth thoran as a one-pot dish, chicken cutlet and chicken palak perattu. And we cannot miss the payasam prepared with black rice, and can be eaten with the ragi-version of boli (similar to puran poli).

This sadya, which comes boxed with a banana leaf and made available for takeaway and delivery, is made up of thoughtful pairings which have come from balancing taste and cooking methods. Chef Nair shares her insight, “The recipes in Kerala cuisine are mostly the same; they are simple, and use a few ingredients. And sadya meals must have six tastes — sour, sweet, spicy, salt, bitter and astringent (pungent taste or tingly feeling that gives the mouth a drying sensation, achieved in the sadya with fenugreek, bitter gourd, cauliflower, and turmeric). But how you balance the ingredients and flavours, how you choose the vegetables, the discipline with which you source and prepare them, is what matters.” 

Chef Sara Jacob Nair

If you’re looking for a wholesome and nutritious sadya, this offering is an interesting option, especially for generations who might find it difficult to upkeep 
tradition or younger folk keen to celebrate their roots. To this, the chef adds, “If it’s not tasty, it’s not on the menu. There is no compromise on flavour here, and no compromise on the essence of sadya which is indulgence, peace and merriment.” And that makes for a happy Onam!

On August 26, 27 and 29 (available for takeaway and delivery)
Log on to @naironfireindia 
Call 9324059522
Cost Rs 1,795

Onam feasting

. Traditional sadya celebrations
On August 29; 10 am to 12 am 
At Just Kerala, Samraj Hotel, Andheri East. 
Call 8928987146 
Cost Rs 1,200 (dine-in); Rs 2,500 (takeaway for three people) 

. Unlimited sadya thali for dine-in and delivery
On August 29; 12 pm to 11 pm
At Dakshin Culture Curry, Mili Building, Matunga West. 
Call 9820124433 
Cost Rs 795 onwards

. Special Onam meal
On August 29; 12 pm to 10 pm
At Kamats Legacy, Bhandup West. 
Call 9004054050 
Cost Rs 699 onwards

. Annual vegetarian Onam special
On August 29; 11 am to 11 pm
At Hotel Deluxe, Pitha Street, Fort. 
Call 66559914
Cost Rs 600 (dine-in); Rs 650 (takeaway)

. Special meal with 24 delicacies 
On August 29; 12 pm to 4 pm (pre-booking mandatory)
At Hotel Sunny, Shell Colony Road, Chembur. 
Call 25223549
Cost Rs 1,200 (takeaway)

. Sadya with 36 dishes 
On August 20 to September 1; 12 pm to 11 pm 
At Food Stories, Sai Sagar Complex, CBD Belapur.
Call 6282713256 
Cost Rs 499

. A vegetarian festive sadya spread
On August 28 to 31; 12 pm to 11 pm
At Taste of Malabar, Dholakwala Building, Fort. 
Call 9769175094 
Cost Rs 500

. Special Onam sadya
On August 29; 11 am to 3.30 pm and 6.30 pm to 11 pm 
At Kerala Tales, Shreeji Plaza, Nerul. 
Call 7208473101 
Cost Rs 700

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