Stationed outside Ghansoli Dargah in Vashi, Ahmedbhai Shaikh’s little kebab pop-up is popular with Navi Mumbai's meat eaters. The meat comes all the way from Taloja. Pic/Sneha Kharabe

Even as the city's culinary heritage continues to be earmarked by Irani cafes and vada pao outposts, there is a meaty chunk of its food history that has a shadowy presence. Mughlai food chains like Bademiya, Delhi Darbar, Ayub's and the famous khau-gallis of Mohammad Ali Road and Mahim might be the first names that come to mind when talking 'seekh', but there is a whole informal network of roadside vendors popping up each night with just table and kebabs. Come morning, there is no trace of the thousands of hungry mouths they fed the night before. Chicken, goat and buffalo meat varieties are served on a strictly available-still-stocks-last basis. The prices, sometimes as low as Rs 7, reinstate our faith in the adage 'in Mumbai, no one goes hungry'.