Indulge in kaapi and solkadi cocktails, bao uthappams and Kundapur chicken wings at a gastropub’s take on traditional dishes from southern shores
Kuttari Salad
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Soulful coconut curries, crunchy kadipatta (curry leaves), tangy tamarind chutneys… is what comes to mind when you think coastal food. Monkey Bar in Bandra has taken these ingredients and dishes and created a culinary tour of the southern coast, touching base at Udupi, Kundapur, Mangalore and Kerala. “It is a vibrant cuisine, which is now getting represented in mainstream dining. We’ve stayed true to the original flavours but added a playful pub twist to it,” says Manu Chandra, chef-partner, Monkey Bar.
Chilli Puli
We hopped aboard this culinary train for a preview. As with every coastal meal, we started with Solkadi, served here as a Soulful Kadhee ('320), a sweet, fruity and citrusy concoction of gin, kokum syrup, curry leaves and lime cordial. The cooling drink, Panakam, got some warmth from whiskey in the Vanakam Panakam ('350). The Chilli Puli ('320) was a strong mixture of tamarind paste, served with a rim of chilli salt, giving the tequila a spicy kick.
Soulful Kadhee
Local love
Our feast began with the fresh and colourful Kuttari Salad ('200), packed with peanuts, pomegranate seeds and raw mango slivers. The dish got extra depth from the fat red rice, warmth from the upmensinkai (dried yoghurt chillies), and sweet coconut shavings.
Coast To Coast. Pics/Joanna Lobo
The next two dishes offered traditional breads, but innovatively. The simple Uthappam became a bao in the Kerala Bao Uthappam ('280). We got down to business with this one, placing bits of juicy beef fry on the uthappam that was layered with onions and kadipatta, and heaped on coconut chutney for added flavour. The Malabar Porotta starred in the KP Tacos ('260). The flaky, layered paratha was topped with a Chettinad-style pulled chicken that lacked the flavour we associate with the popular curry.
The spicy Kundapur masala, commonly used in Ghee Roasts and Sukka dishes, added flavour and texture to Prawn Ghee Roast ('300) and Kundapur Wings ('240).
The Udupi Beet Cutlets ('200) was the restaurant’s tribute to Udupi’s legendary Café Diana, known for its beet and potato cutlets. With mashed green peas added to the mix, it got extra flavour from a tangy sweet tamarind and coconut ketchup that was so good, we wanted to bottle it up to eat with chips later.
Thali speak
How can you talk of coastal food without the ubiquitous and filling thali? Their version, Coast To Coast ('320) had a light, tangy Mangalore-inspired gassi with raw mango, a salad of avial vegetables topped with coconut shavings, long-grained ghee rice, a leafy gongura (sorrel leaves) chutney, papad, Kerala paratha and a mildly sweet jaggery custard with diced fruit. It made us wish we were sitting by the beachside, eating this thali while sipping on coconut water.
We skipped the coffee for the Kapi Macha ('320), a strong, bitter drink with a double hit of rum and coffee. It was the perfect antidote to the siesta we had just about settled in for after the meal.
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