Of rasikas and relish

At this day-long fest of Carnatic music, dip into the experience of Chennai's Margazhi.

A violin melody in the backdrop, the incessant beating of a mridangam and the distinct sound of nadaswaram in the distance, as you take a walk down a lane that houses Chennai's quintessential sabhas.

The smell of ghee wafting through the air with a hint of piquant podi (gunpowder) only to be interrupted by the crackling sound of freshly molded vadas being dipped into piping hot oil. Margazhi, the annual December music and dance festival in the South Indian city is characterised by this and more.

Sowmya Iyer

And as you walk through the crowd of zari-laden, elegantly-draped kanjivarams and silken veshtis, you are transported to a world of thalams and ragas, punctuated by renditions of the Thilanna (a rhythmic piece in Carnatic music).

A re-creation of this magic, right here in the city, Mumbai Margazhi Mahotsavam is set to give you a taste of the traditional December music season. "Margazhi typically means a big feast. It's a plethora of things, from lecture demonstrations to bhakti geet in the mornings and a classical concert in the evening," says Ranjani of classical duo Ranjani Gayatri who spent her earlier years in Mumbai. "When we were growing up, there were no such festivals, and experiencing Margazhi meant a trip all the way to Chennai," she adds.

Umayalpuram Sivaraman

Spread across 12 hours, this day-long festival will host eight renowned classical musicians from Chennai and one from Mumbai in seven kutcheris (concerts) and one lecture demonstration. The performances are a combination of Carnatic classical vocals and instrumentals. "We wanted to follow the same format as Chennai's traditional Margazhi, albeit on a smaller scale," says Mahesh Babu, founder and managing director of Banyan Tree Events, the company behind the festival.

Taking cue from the original, the festival here is imagined in typical Margazhi style, with attendees walking into concerts, stepping out for a bite and going right back to another melodious treat. As such, Chennai's famed Arusuvai canteen will set up shop at the venue. On offer will be authentic dosa, vada, idli, curd rice and a host of other savoury snacks and meals. A sabha experience is incomplete without the evening tiffin, a competitive and prestigious market in the original festival.

S Shashank

The performances too, won't be different from the traditional kutcheris. Talking about what's on the cards, flutist S Shashank says, "It is a bit early to decide what I will be performing but the central piece will be ragam, thalam and pallavi. The pallavi is similar to a bandish in Hindustani classical music that can be improvised." Adding to this, he says, "My performance won't be any different from the sabhas in Chennai. But, if I notice more of a North Indian crowd in the audience, I will try to explain what I am playing." Vocalist Sowmya Iyer, on the other hand, reveals her performance will include the quintessential Thiruppavai (a devotional song in praise of poet Andal) and bhajanai (devotional songs). "My concerts in Chennai would include manodharma sangeetham (improvised compositions) but here there will be focus on the original compositions,"
she says.

Though primarily for lovers of Carnatic music in the city, the festival is also a primer for those seeking an introduction to the form in a wholesome manner. All one needs, the organisers and artistes tell us, is an open mind and a willingness to soak in the sounds and culture of the region. "It is a feast for the ears and the soul. But, don't forget to sip the filter coffee," signs off Ranjani.

On January 11, 9 am to 9 pm
At St Andrews Auditorium, Bandra West.
Call 9223231359
Log on to bookmyshow.com
Cost Rs 500

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