Shvatra offers a well-deserved respite from the heavy, over-spiced dishes available at most restaurants and reminds you of good home-made food

Shvatra is not the place for a first date. But if you are happily married with 2.5 screaming kids then this is the perfect place to drop by. The brightly lit family restaurant is arranged into four long rows of attached open booths. It's simply furnished, with brown wood laminate and still-life paintings with busy waiters going about their business. Like most of his contemporaries in Kalbadevi, proprietor Bhagat Tarachand started his business by catering to bachelors, traders and shopkeepers in the neighbourhood who craved for ghar ka khaana. Its philosophy hasn't changed since. Shvatra, whichu00a0 means 'fresh food', dishes out mostly traditional, home-style Gujarati and Marwari food with some Punjabi thrown in for good measure. Jain customers have plenty to choose from with three sections -- Simply Jain, Jain Paneer and No Onion, No Garlic u2013 devoted especially to them.

Since we had no dietary restrictions, we began with starters from the regular menu. First up were the Alu Methi Tikkis (Rs 99) and Cheese Pakodas (Rs 109). The tikkis were crisp, crunchy and came topped with chaat masala while the pakodas -- cheese sticks dipped in batter and deep-fried -- tasted great with the green and imli chutney.

Almost everything we ordered, whether it was the crisp Bhindi Fry (Rs 79), the mushy Sev Tomato (Rs 79), the pulpy Baingan Bharta (Rs 79), or the colourful Veg Pulao (Rs 69) tasted as though it had been cooked in someone's home and not a bustling restaurant. The food is simple with clean flavours, unlike the heavy, over-spiced vegetarian options available at most restaurants.

The standouts were the Papad Churi (Rs 69), a traditional Marwari dish that is a mixture of papad crumbs and caramelised onions, a great accompaniment to the main course. Another was the Dal Lasooni Tadka (Rs 99) that was served with a thick layer of deep-fried onions and garlic over the dal.

At: Shop No T-17, 3rd Floor, R City Mall, LBS Marg, Ghatkopar (W).
Call: 67704411 / 4499

Shvatra didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals

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