Mumbai dreams on a thali

The Friends Union Joshi Club in Kalbadevi is more than just a foodie landmark; it's where freedom fighters, including Gandhiji ate and possibly discussed the future of the nation

Following your nose might not be the best advice to dispense to anyone sniffing around for The Friends Union Joshi Club on Kalbadevi Road. The district that continues to buzz till way past most bedtimes smells far from pretty. The weeknight we stopped by, we practically swung over an open drain, dodged past cheeky taxis, hopped on and off eroded pavements to get here. This is Mumbai.

Unless you are familiar with the area, it's a good idea to enter Kalbadevi from Princess Street and take the left at the Round Building junction. Keep in mind that post 9 pm, this becomes a one-way, so you'll need to walk some distance. Keep an eye out for a signboard that reads 'Joshi Bhojanalaya' on the first floor of a building that looks at least a century-old.

Homecoming
The hysteria of the street slowly fades into the background. Once inside, we see a woman
sitting on the steps of the entrance to the building, diligently rubbing tooth powder over her gums with her index finger. 'Thoop!' Pearls of spittle mixed with tooth powder glisten at the side of her mouth. We turn right and clamber up the smelly stairs. A man in kurta-pyjama smiles and gestures for us to go inside.

A symphony of waiters soon glides into action. Our glasses are filled with water. Pickle, chutney and 'slaad' are spooned into our massive thalis. Ghooghra, a deep-fried dumpling pregnant with smashed peas and spices, is tossed our way. Tendli, Simla Mirchi, Dahi Besan curry, Punjabi Mixed Vegetables are slopped into katoris. Sweet and savoury kadhis, phulkas, biscuit bhakris, masala rotis, rice and khichdi are part of the feast. Each time we look up, servers fill our thali to ensure we focus on the food.

No fixed menu
Except for puran poli on Wednesdays (lunch and dinner) and Saturdays (dinner), and pulao on Thursdays (for lunch), there is no fixed menu. Yogesh Purohit, whose father worked with the Joshi family, and who later took over the Joshi Club, says that the day's menu is determined by what is freshly available in the market

History lesson
The Friends Union Joshi Club was started by Govindram Shankarji Joshi and four of his friends in 1945. Originally from Rajkot, Gujarat, Joshi came to Mumbai in the early 1940s, after several unsuccessful attempts to find work in Ahmedabad.

"My grandfather was a freedom fighter. He went to jail for eight months, along with Gandhiji, Morarji Desai and UN Dhebar. When he was released, he found that his home and his (soda water) factory were auctioned by the British. He had eight dependents and no profession to pursue," shares Anand Joshi. In Mumbai, GS Joshi met old friends Morarji Desai and UN Dhebar, since the Congress had its head office here.

Dhebar put GS Joshi in charge of organising meals for the five of them. Over time, the group expanded to 30, which is when they thought of opening an eating place. "The British initially denied my grandfather a license. They said it would only be possible if they formed a club with more than 100
members," says Joshi.

Resolute, GS Joshi and four of his friends contributed Rs 100 each towards the effort, and managed to get 100 'members' to sign up at the 'club' for a monthly meal service. "And that is how it came to be known as The Friends Union Joshi Club," shares Joshi.

Gandhiji ate here
"Recently, an aunt called me from Manhattan to say that she was at an Indian restaurant where they had put up a photograph of Gandhiji eating at Joshi Club, in which my grandfather is also seen," says Joshi.

At the time, the 1,500 sq ft eating joint that can seat up to 50 people, did not have its trademark benches. "There was a separate patla (wooden stool) to sit on, and another to place the thali," says Joshi.

In keeping with their Gandhian beliefs, Joshi says that the place was closed on Sunday evenings; a policy that is practised by the current owners as well. "My grandfather (and father) believed that just as we need a day's rest, so does the stomach, which is why we (are) the only restaurant in the area to remain closed on the busiest day of the week," says Joshi.

The Friends Union Joshi Club might be a far cry from today's swish thali joints with their gleaming counters, but what loyal diners return for is a wholesome Gujarati thali, service that's kind, and a chance to reminisce over history.

AT: The Friends Union Joshi Club, 381-A Narottam Wadi, first floor, Kalbadevi Road.
CALL: 22058089
Timings: 11 am to 3 pm; 7 pm to 10 pm. Closed for dinner on Sundays.
FOR: Rs 110. Dessert is an additional Rs 20. Sunday lunch is priced at Rs 150.