The already crowded Lokhandwala area will have to make room for Grillopolis, the newest fine dining address that looks set to give its well-settled neighbours a run for their money

The already crowded Lokhandwala area will have to make room for Grillopolis, the newest fine dining address that looks set to give its well-settled neighbours a run for their money

It's easy to miss Grillopolis. It's tucked in one of the poorly lit bylanes near the Infiniti Mall signal and we very nearly relied on directions provided by the geographically challenged staff.

Cage Grilled Salmon with Parsley. Pics/ Satyajit Desai

Once spotted, we were ushered into a rather grandiose looking double storied fine dining address -- the lower level caters to the buffet, while the a la carte section and the open bar was upstairs. The restaurant also offers a prix fixe menu.

The decibel levels below made us instantly opt for the latter. The regalia theme was omnipresent -- spacious seating, rich drapes and upholstery, glitzy lighting and an opulent bar. We were the lone occupants when we stepped in. Being a Sunday, it came as a surprise. However, groups trickled in as the evening warmed up. A giant screen projected popular English tracks from the '90s.

We settled into a comfy corner table but it was only later that we would realise how these unappealingly low tables would cause a few odd niggles, once our food arrived. Piqued by the extravagant bar menu, we ordered our tipples -- Ginger & Curry Leaf Martini and Melon & Lemongrass Cocktail (Rs 225 each). The la carte menu was limited yet surprisingly well thought out.

We opted for Grill Mushrooms with Mashed Potato (Rs 250) and Cage Grilled Indian Salmon with Parsley (Rs 350). It started off on a good note with both cocktails earning full marks; despite the unusual blend, the Ginger and Curry Leaf combination was excellent.

Our starters arrived in good time -- both were distinctly flavoured. The mushrooms and mashed potato made for excellent finger food; it was cleared in minutes, alternately the Cage Grilled Salmon can pass off as a main for a light eater. Grilled to perfection, the parsley provided for a luxuriant texture and flavour for the fish; it prevailed over the rest as the winner that evening.

By now, the low tables had us bending at an odd angle for every bite. Occasionally, we found ourselves carrying the heavy plates; this proved a bother, especially with the meats. Luckily amidst this unpleasant ergonomic situation, our mains didn't disappoint -- Broccoli with Three Cheeses, Wild Mushroom Risotto and Grilled Chicken with Cranberry Sauce (Rs 350 each).

The Parmesan, Mozzarella and Greve cheese combined well with the broccoli for an interesting twist that pleased my veggie gourmand partner, as did the mushroom risotto though these didn't taste anything like wild mushrooms. The grilled chicken was served with lightly saut ufffded rice and was laced with cranberry sauce, aiding for a rich aftertaste to round off a pleasantly palatable experience. If you're willing to erase the balancing act with the cutlery, that is.u00a0u00a0

At G01-101, Morya Landmark I, off Infiniti Mall, New Link Road, Andheri (W).
Call 64559900 / 64569900
Grillopolis didn't know we were there. The GUIDE reviews and pays anonymously for meals.