The Dhokla isn't all that fluffy, and the typical sweet tinge that characterises Gujarati food, was missing. But if it's a reasonably priced unlimited thali you want to wolf down, Gujarati-Rajasthani thali place Toran is not a bad bet

Garba music playing in the backdrop, vibrant torans adorning the walls, and friendly waiters in white dhoti-kurtas add to the dramatic sights and sounds. But when you launch a Gujarati-Rajasthani thali restaurant in an area that holds a pre-dominantly Gujarati population, you better get your basics right. And that's where month-old Toran at Dadar TT, stumbles.

pics/Atul Kamble

We stepped in at noon to find the frugal, six-tabled eatery empty. You aren't really spoilt for choice here; there's just one Unlimited Thali option on offer, both for lunch and dinner.

We missed the sweet tinge that's synonymous with Gujarati dishes, though we are glad the four vegetables served in the thali weren't oily. Those expecting traditional favourites like Undhiya will be disappointed with the basic aloo, sprouted moong and tindli fare. The flavours of dal and kadhi were closer home. We didn't understand the idea behind serving Makai Ki Roti (a staple Punjabi dish) while we were on our third phulka roti.

No Gujju meal is complete without a raw mango or lime pickle, but Toran served us a let-down-of-a-carrot-pickle after repeatedly asking for it. The not-so-fluffy white Dhoklas and Dahi Wada didn't help matters either.

You can choose one dessert out of four varieties, and we were happy with the elaichi-laced Shrikhand and piping hot Gajar Halwa. On Sundays, expect to find the ghee-laden Daal-Baati Churma on the menu. Its reasonable price tag of Rs 150, makes it a reliable choice if you are in no mood for adventure.

At: 1, Dharamputra, Pritam Estates, near Dadar TT Circle, Dadar (E).
Call: 43449999

Toran didn't know we were there. The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.