And so we head to Kanazawa, in central Japan, my friend Tariq and I—it is a far cry from Tokyo, it is no sleepy town, wonderful old Geisha neighbourhoods, we’re staying in the samurai district, architecture like no other in its compactness and composure. This is truly traditional Japan.

It is my 62nd birthday, and we decide on a restaurant hopping spree—a multi cuisine, multi-stop celebration, some soba noodles, some sashimi, some sea urchin, some Spanish paella, some spaghetti.