Who won the Cannes red carpet?

Midway through the 77th Cannes film festival last month a palpable shift altered the redcarpet fashion narrative Suddenly the spotlight shifted from the big designer ensembles worn by Bollywood celebrity ambassadors to the costumes of independent cinemarsquos cast and crew Here the focus turned to outfits designed by smaller indie labels with an alternative pulse signalling a big comingout moment It was less about appearances and more about clothes that celebrated selfexpression and individuality registering a stoic defiance against the controlled uniform codes of staccato poses and styles of the past that had manifested into successive princesslike ensemblesIndie film and fashion converged on the Cannes 2024 red carpet to represent diverse sartorial expressions reflecting the power and influence of Indiarsquos womenDiya John of Salt Studio designed Kani Kusrutirsquos clutch in the shape of a slice of watermelon using gaji silk drawing attention to Palestine Ratna Pathak Shah x ReCeremonialHow brilliant is Ratna Pathak Shah Let us count the ways She wore a preloved Chanderi silk saree in the Samandar Leher technique designed by Somya Tambi for Meekhalio at the screening of Shyam Benegalrsquos restored 1976 film ManthanEqually remarkable was her decision to collaborate with ReCeremonial a young and upcoming label to craft a bespoke lilac jacket and blouse from Aurangabadrsquos ancient Himroo weave During an initial phone call to Ateev Anand founder and designer of ReCeremonial she casually asked ldquoCan I wear my own sareerdquo Anand describes her request as refreshingly unconventional noting ldquoItrsquos not every day that you have a critically acclaimed actor confidently declaring her intent to wear her own clothes at Cannes She is the epitome of coolrdquo he told midday Since 2022 Ateevrsquos Mumbaibased label has been recycling handloom fabrics into ReCeremonial collections using only natural dyes ldquoThe phrase that resonates with me to describe my label is lsquopreferred practices with a clear consciencersquo regarding our clothing productionrdquo Anand explainsShahrsquos alignment with ReCeremonial values on a global stage has not only given it visibility but also validation for its founder ldquoIt has sparked interest in ourlabel and Ratnajirsquos crosssectional appeal has helped broaden our reach While it might not have directly resulted in sales whatrsquos more important is that it has strengthened every interaction we have had from discussions with my family to engagements with my retail partnersrdquoDiya John Ateev Anand Santanu Das Arjun SalujaPayal Kapadia x MakuWho says the most impactful statement an Indian woman can make on a global stage is in a saree Payal Kapadia shattered this notion by becoming the first filmmaker of Indian cinema to win the coveted Grand Prix for All We Imagine As Light Her chosen attire A navy blue jacket and dress from artisanal brand Maku Santanu Das Makursquos founder and creative director revealed during a phone interview from Kolkata ldquoShe wore the ensemble twice choosing to have the quilted jacket open during the film screening and buttoned at the award ceremonyWhen Das founded the brand in 2012 he envisioned it as a symbol of dissent against fashionrsquos fetishisation of gloss and glamour His brand represents a slow fibre movement allowing natural fibres traditional handdyeing techniques and artisanal craftsmanship to speak upMakursquos pieces are not trendy in the literal sensemdashhis simple silhouettes are similar across seasonsmdashbut they are undeniably cool ldquoMy clothes are devoid of meaning without personality it is the wearer who infuses life into them My design approach is about forging a connection with the person wearing my clothes Dressing Payal was a joy despite the tight deadline of four days Her understated yet compelling personality resonated with merdquo He adds ldquoAnd just to clarify Payal graciously paid for the outfitsrdquoRatna Pathak Shah Naseeruddin Shah and Prateik Babbar on the red carpet for the screening of the restored version of the classic film Manthan at Cannes PicsGetty ImagesKani Kusruti x Salt StudioIn a gesture reminiscent of actor Cate Blanchettrsquos collaboration with designer Haider Ackerman who created a red carpet gown subtly incorporating the colours of the Palestinian flag in a statement of support for Palestinian liberation Kani Kusruti partnered with Diya John to craft a gaji silk clutch shaped like a watermelon The fruitrsquos significance in Palestinian activism lies in its colours mirroring those of the flag Though small it made a bold statement against her textured ivory dress featuring puff sleeves evoking the style of blouses worn beneath sarees by women in Kerala ldquoKani preferred understated elegance steering clear of anything overly flashy or dramatic especially for the filmrsquos premiererdquo explains John ldquoFor ease of movement we designed a short dress with a deep cleavage made from selfwoven Banarasi fabric mixed with cotton However for the award ceremony we injected some cheek into her look opting for a crepe silk saree with a playful pop of colourrdquo Their friendship as well as a shared wardrobe predates Kusrutirsquos role as one of the leading protagonists in Payal Kapadiarsquos All We Imagine As Light ldquoWhen Kani first approached me to design outfits for her Cannes appearance my initial thought was to curate her look from bigger brands accessible through my boutique But she was determined to use the global platform to promote a small homegrown brand like oursrdquoEstablished in 2010 by John with her husband John Joseph Salt Studio began as an independent store and Western readytowear brand in Kochi ldquoOn the vast Indian fashion scene which often revolves around Mumbai Delhi and Bollywood star endorsements we were just a tiny speckrdquoHowever all this changed with Kusrutirsquos involvement who not only brought global attention to the store but also altered perceptions ldquoSuddenly I am being treated like a celebrityrdquo she laughs ldquoOn a serious note I am thrilled that after 14 years our unwavering commitment is paying off The buzz around our brand is amazingmdashwe need volume to grow our business My parents didnrsquot see the practical value in fashion as a profession that narrative has definitely changedrdquo Anasuya Sengupta captures the zeitgeist with her left index finger painted in Pride colours complemented by conceptual jewellery from Studio Kassa and Studio MetallurgyAnasuya Sengupta x RishtaCould Anasuya Senguptarsquos historic win as the first Indian to receive the Best Actress for The Shameless signal a transformative shift in the archetype of the Indian heroine moving beyond the confines of an insider elite Only time will tellYet her choice of garment at the photocallmdasha deconstructed sherwanidress by Rishta teamed with boots and with left index finger painted in colours of the Pride flagmdashnailed the current zeitgeist of a modern Indian woman equal parts practical and daring ldquoShe embodied a new attitude when she wore India on her sleeve but in her own wayrdquo feels Arjun Saluja the Delhibased brandrsquos designer and founder ldquoThough the impact on sales is yet to be seen we are happy to have contributed to the broader dialogue surrounding indie cinemardquoSalujarsquos irreverent approach often leads him to utilise essential Indian shapes and silhouettes like the sherwani dhoti saree drape or ganji but with a deconstructed twist The hybrid ivory dress worn by Sengupta was made from cotton canvas twill handpainted in metallic and gold He eschews mainstream or gender norms opting instead for an alternative approach that emphasises individuality ldquoFor us it is about understanding who you are what excites and seduces you This outsider perspective gives us freedom instead of constraint to offer a fresher more relevant approach to Indian fashionrdquo