As this iconic Mumbai diner celebrates 65 years, take a walk down memory lane

The year was 1958 A time was when Kala Ghoda mdash long before it became an art district mdash was infamous for pickpocketers and drug addicts A few good men started a 10seater restaurant in an 800 sq ft space for which they paid R100 pagdi a month It served food from the NorthWest Frontier One by one they acquired the other rooms in the building seamlessly integrating them into the 7000sqft havelistyle warren that still defines the space today mdash each corner whispering a different storyOn March 31 1985 at 6 am Khyber went up in flames The restaurant was gutted as the owners stood there and watched helplessly the cause never fully known They were underinsuredmdashby half Most partners chose to walk away All but one Om Prakash OP BahlBrad Pitt at Khyber during his visit in 2017Stubborn and driven postPartition OP had left a job as a building contractor in Calcutta In 1954 he moved to Delhi to work with his cousins at the iconic Gaylord restaurant owned by the family of hotelier Ravi Ghai Food was his true calling Two years later it was time mdash to build something of his own He came to BombayAfter the fire OP and his son Sudheer mdash fresh out of IIM Ahmedabad and newly inducted into the business mdash set out to reinvent Khyber Architect Hafeez Contractor reimagined the structure modelled on a village Parmeshwar Godrej brought her signature flair to the interiors The result handcarved Rajasthani stone jaalis Urdu poetry in calligraphyframed arches mirrored alcoves and textured walls reminiscent of a haatGodrej called on her formidable circle Anjolie Ela Menon and MF Husain among them It is said she wasnrsquot satisfied with a mural Husain had painted onsite and requested three canvases insteadSudheer Bahl Chairman Khyber Restaurant with his son and CEO IshaanThat space now known as The Husain Room recently reopened after a fourmonth renovation The updates are subtle mdash lighter walls antique gold lamps Italian marble underfoot and polished walnut tables The three original Husains still command the room a selfportrait in royal attire a begum with a chilam and vivid Urdu calligraphy exploding with colourIn the room that houses Anjolie Ela Menonrsquos artworks the sootstreaked walls remain untouched mdash intentionally so Godrej in her wisdom called this a milliondollar wall Menon built a platform there and handpainted directly onto the wall To enhance its oldworld charm the wall and parts of the painting were deliberately chippedMF HUSAINrsquoS Begum with chillum one of the three canvases he painted for KhyberKhyber reopened in 1988 mdash transformed What was once a volumedriven budget joint had morphed into a sleek modern Indian restaurant with elevated fare The spirit stayed the same mdash the body changed And Bombay loved itSince then its tables have hosted royalty and rockstars alike Brad Pitt once dined here with friends polishing off a plate of Baingan Bharta Sir Paul McCartney asked for the Paneer Korma recipe mdash and even offered to pay for it Richard Branson Demi Moore Kuwaiti royals the Grand Duke of Luxembourg international cricket teams spiritual leaders and just about every Bollywood icon from Amitabh Bachchan to Aamir Khan have all found their way to Khyber You could be sitting where they once didldquoThe decade that followed was Khyberrsquos golden run mdash it cemented the restaurantrsquos identity for years to comerdquo says Sudheer Bahl who always remained unfazed by fame He has modelled in campaigns for Arvind Mills Binnys Vimal and Toyota and has done over 30 campaigns since he was 18 To this day Sudheerrsquos role remains unchanged he checks the product mdash food and hospitality mdash with hawkeyed consistency Sudheer remains a quiet constant mdash at his desk every morning by 10 am ldquoSome of our regulars donrsquot even need a menurdquo adds his son Ishaan who grew up around dinnertable conversations about restaurants and boardroom expansion plans ldquoOur manager knows exactly what theyrsquoll orderrdquoToday the restaurant is helmed by Sudheer his wife Rashmi who has an eye for design and Ishaan mdash also the driving force behind the popular cafeacutebar chain 145 The family is overseeing a meticulous roombyroom restoration with plans to complete the transformation by January 2026KhyberLooking back Khyber hasnrsquot reinvented itself it has refined itself The proof lies not just in its evolving spaces but in the countless tales of distinction that have unfolded within its haveliinspired ambience Heartfelt anecdotes from multigenerational patrons such as the Ambanis Anil Munshi Adamjee and Shah families speak volumes mdash they consider Khyber a timeless tradition and a ldquogoto comfort diningrdquo spot Their stories echo the same sentiment consistency warmth and the familiar welcome that keeps them coming backWhile Sudheer brings decades of vision calm and culinary instinct to the table Ishaan complements him with energy speed and a detaildriven approach tailored to todayrsquos fastpaced hospitality landscape ldquoDuring COVID 19 we had over 500 people depending on usrdquo recalls Ishaan ldquoIt was my fatherrsquos composure that gave me the strength to carry on mdash I didnrsquot want a pandemic to wipe out what we had builtrdquo says Ishaan often referred to as Mr 247 by his team for being always plugged in Together they embody a generational partnership where tradition meets tempo and instinct balances innovationPaul McCartney Was Willing To Pay To Get The Recipe for This Paneer KormaBut while the walls may get a fresh coat the heart of Khyber mdash the food mdash remains reassuringly unchanged Signature dishes such as the slowcooked raan crisp tandoori rotis and creamy maa ki dal have been served in the same way for decades The menu continues to channel the bold rustic flavours of the NorthWest Frontier from the robust Spiced Chicken Broth and Mirch ka Salan to the Dhaba Gosht Methi Malai Mutter and Prawns Mughlai and newer additions such as beetroot galouti kebabs and smoked butter chicken sit comfortably alongside the classics Still the core menu is fiercely protected mdash about 80 per cent of it has remained unchanged for over 30 years Thatrsquos by design ldquoOur head chef hasnrsquot retired yetrdquo says Sudheer ldquoAnd when he does his son will step in We hold on to our people Our kitchen doesnrsquot turn over mdash it turns tradition into legacyrdquoKhyberrsquos story canrsquot be told in a single conversation mdash it lives in the moments memories and legacy the Bahls have built over time Since reopening they have also found new ways to share that experience while staying true to what makes it timelessReshmi BroccolildquoLooking ahead wersquore bringing the Khyber luxury experience to your home mdash be it for weddings private dinners or intimate celebrations with our team recreating the signature atmosphere guests love Wersquore also launching international bar takeovers at Khyber finally giving our bar programme the spotlight it deserves However when it comes to Khyber as a brand itself we plan to change as little as possible Because for many Khyber means comfort mdash and thatrsquos something wersquoll always protectrdquo signs off Ishaan1958The year Khyber started as a 10seater dhabaRapid fire with the Bahl boysA dish thatrsquos been on the menu since day onePaneer KormaThe one celebrity guest who left you starstruckGoldie Hawn Sudheer Brad Pitt IshaanTandoori or Rogan Joshmdashyour personal pickRogan Josh Sudheer Tandoori IshaanThe secret behind Khyberrsquos timeless charm in one wordMajestic Sudheer Consistent IshaanIf Khyber had a signature scent what would it beWooden earthyOne decade that defined Khyber for youThe one after the fireA modern twist yoursquod love to introducemdashbut havenrsquot yetInternational bar takeovers mdash but we will soonThe most requested table in the restaurantThe round table mdash thatrsquos where most celebrities have dinedA dish you havenrsquot taken off your menuThere are many mdash Paneer Korma Butter Chicken Raan and Paya Shorba for sureIf Khyber were a person how would you describe their personalityRoyalIf you were to expand to another city mdash which one would it beInternationally London In India Banjara Hills HyderabadAn unusual request from a guestPaul McCartney called the manager and asked for the recipe of Paneer Korma