What you seek, may not necessarily be seeking you and sometimes, that’s okay. We are applying this philosophical un-Rumi quote to our recent trip to Kala Ghoda. Going around in circles, in the tiny bylanes dotted with trendy cafes sitting  beside high-end designer stores, we finally reach Folk, home chef Jasleen Marwah’s first venture as a restaurateur. It serves comforting regional food from various parts of the country. No Mumbai restaurant has attempted to put Kokni Muslim food on the menu, so kudos to that.

It’s a collaboration with Prashant Pallath (of Bombay Taco Company and The Tanjore Tiffin Room fame) and Zareena Dadan, who has curated the Kokni dishes on the menu. These include kokum fish fry, Kokni sukka chicken, Kokni cutlet—all made using the masalas from her hometown Panley. This writer went to Folk for haldawni (a spicy red seafood gravy), specific to Kokni cuisine.