Meat me halfway

A week-old vegan cafe in Bandra promises to make plant-based meals yummy

FOOD: SCRUMPTIOUS
AMBIENCE: CUTESY
SERVICE: ATTENTIVE
COST: REASONABLE
VERDICT: 1.5/4

Isn't it astonishing how people find ways to radicalise the most innocent of things? From religions to sub-cultures, certain sections of practitioners have an uncanny habit of breathing fundamentalism — riding on the back of oodles of judgment — into their credence. For instance, veganism. Once associated with nature-and-animal loving, free-thinking communities, veganism has suddenly come to symbolise, instead, finger-pointing devotees.

Fusilli alfredo

Most carnivores, however, tiptoe around vegans and vegan-friendly offerings with a mix of curiosity and humour (you can't ignore the wit behind the memes). What is surprising to learn, from a 24-year-old friend who turned vegan two years ago after being a heavy meat-eater for years, is that vegans themselves are wary of products and services that are allegedly designed for them. "As a vegan, one has to usually visit a café like this [in Versova/Pali Hill promising the 'best' alternatives]. And I usually avoid going to such places because they seem a tad pretentious. They are often overpriced, and focus on aspects of veganism that I don't necessarily identify with [lifestyle, health, picking up on what's trending, etc], as opposed to sustainability/ecological benefits of such a choice," she tells us on our way to Seeds of Life, a new healthy café, incidentally located in Pali Village.

It's a cute space, but predictably put together in hues of green, yellow and teal. There are mini terrariums and potted plants adorning the walls and hanging from the ceiling, attached to light fixtures. For a place that opened just last Friday, it's surprisingly full. The menu claims that their goal is simple — 'Eat good, feel better,' with a range of dishes on offer that fit neatly into their mantra of serving healthy-meets-yummy fare made without refined sugar, wheat flour, processed foods. To that end, it is perhaps best to try dishes that seem implausible as vegan (a pasta in white sauce, which is unimaginable without cheese, as opposed to, say, an aglio olio) to see if they truly pass the test.

The illusionist

We begin with the classic lemonade (Rs150) and are pleased by its saccharine-tangy taste, and opaque-topaz colour, like a Goan summer sky before sunset, instead of a liquid-ey nimbu paani, which is what most places serve, in the garb of lemonade. Next, there's the illusionist (Rs325). The name alludes to its USP — the usage of mock meat. The sandwich has a charred aroma, tons of pepper and the opposite of the refreshing, cool, leafy sandwiches the mind imagines when someone says, "sandwich." It's interesting, because the mock meat tastes a lot like mutton (marinated and grilled), but without the fibre and grit. "This is succulent. Most places call it mock meat but just serve grilled or roasted tofu bits," our vegan companion shares.

She seems happy with the fusilli alfredo (Rs325), too, a velvety portion of sauce and slightly over-cooked pasta. "It's easy to over-cook healthy pasta," our friend alerts as we dissect the bow-tie-shaped food. The pasta might be softer than required, but on the whole, it's hard to tell that this is a vegan dish, because it's brimming with the same, briny, buttery goodness of regular cheese. Similarly, the mushroom stroganoff (Rs395) has an earthy taste, which is balanced by the milky sauce. And the herb rice that it comes with has a strong punch of rosemary, which helps uplift the subtle flavours of the stroganoff. The chocolate mousse (Rs350) comes in a cutesy jar, and is an all-vegan (again, hard to tell), luscious treat.

Classic lemonade

"In all, it was pleasant, tasty food. Will I come back again? Maybe. Will I recommend the place? Definitely," our friend concludes, which pretty much sums things up — a café that is no-nonsense and easy-going, just like vegans from yesteryear.

At Seeds of Life, Vora House, 30B, Pali Mala Road, Pali Hill, Bandra West.
Time 4 pm to 11 pm
Call 9324279719

4/4 EXCEPTIONAL, 3/4 EXCELLENT, 2/4 VERY GOOD, 1/4 GOOD, 0.5/4 AVERAGE

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