A family that helped make butter chicken a favourite in Mumbai speaks about its evolution, from a greasy delight to sophisticated comfort food.
An indulgent casserole of portofino lamb or a patila of salubrious butter chicken brimming with aromas? The choice, for most of us, is a no-brainer. Gastronomes have been quick to write off unabashed lovers of butter chicken as ignoramuses. This hubris is preempted by the logic that those who love the humble dish are perhaps not exposed to the riveting ambit of the culinary world. But in fact, it is a rationale that disproves itself, for those who swear by the dish, do so not because of the paucity of knowledge of trailblazing culinary alternatives, but rather because of its inherent simplicity.
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It is thus brave of those who continue to bet their money on such a dish at a time when the industry is looking to modernise every pickle and papad they can lay their hands on. Even if it comes at the cost of being tagged as pedestrian. It is as possible to build an unflinching defence in its case based on notes from your Zomato order history, as it is easy to find it in the legacy left behind by the late S Kulwant Singhji Kohli. He breathed his last on July 17 after helming Pritam Group for decades. Founded in 1942 by Singh's father, this is the same hospitality chain that has been credited for making the northern Indian delicacy popular in Mumbai. Now, we hear that in another six months the company will be launching a butter chicken brand under his name and in his memory.
Amardeep
Kulwant Kohli's son, Amardeep aka Tony, tells us, "The provenance of butter chicken dates back to five decades. However, there are no clear antecedents for its creation. What is clear though is that it was brought to Bombay by my family and providentially, we were lucky to be the ones to do this, and that it ended up becoming iconic over the years." He adds that this would have perhaps not been possible if it germinated in the unorganised food sector, as it could have lacked the vision and passion, both of which played an immense role in this case.
In fact, even to this day, a bowl of kaali dal and butter chicken is kept ready on the dining table every time Tony's son, and fourth-generation co-owner of the family-owned business, Abhayraj returns from another country. As a restaurateur with an insight into the modern food industry, he says that the evolution of the dish is only natural. So, it has transformed from a robust and rustic curry made with whole masalas into a smoother and creamier dish.
Kulwant and Abharaj Singh Kohli
"People are bound to experiment with it, and they are. So, you'll see someone smoking their butter chicken with charcoal, importing tomatoes and roasting them for the gravy, or pulverising it. But the truth remains that it is a comfort food that you're likely to reach out for, whether you're happy, sad or missing home. This is not a fad, it is part of our culture," he explains. Meanwhile, here's where you can savour the treat.
As iconic as it gets
Drive through the stretch of road on which this eatery has been sitting for 25 years on a weekend and you're likely to miss it amid the crowds. A close-to-authentic version, here the butter chicken is a lovely yellow. It manages to strike the right tomato-to-butter balance, which is why it is such a hit among this city's eaters. In fact, the franchise has been around for 45 years; their first outlet was set up in Sion.
At Mini Punjab (Sion and Bandra West).
Time 12 pm to 4 pm; 7 pm to 12 am
Call 26006164 (Bandra West)
Cost Rs 320
Makhan mar ke
If you're craving a few drinks along with a delicious helping of butter chicken and naan, head to this eatery, which has a full bar menu, too. Originally located in Sion, the eatery has opened another outlet in Kurla this year. The popular dish from here comes highly recommended, as it is silky smooth.
At Hardeep Punjab (Kurla West and Sion).
Time 11 am to 1 am
Call 8080808002 (Sion)
Cost Rs 600 (for full); Rs 310 (for half)
GTB Nagar's pride
Popular for murgh handi, paneer kulcha, tandoori chicken and makke di roti and sarson da saag, this haunt in Sion's GTB Nagar has been credited by some as the creators of the fish koliwada. They are, however, equally adept in dishing out a great butter chicken. A dark red and luscious version, this comes donned with chopped coriander and a spoonful of butter.
At Hazara Restaurant and Bar, Hukumchand C Julka Chowk, GTB Nagar, Sion Koliwada, Sion.
Time 12 pm to 1 am
Call 24092617
Cost Rs 525 (for full); Rs 273 (for half)
For midnight indulgence
Also known for their fresh seafood, this eatery is a go-to for many youngsters seeking a pocket-friendly meal in the middle of the night. A modern dhaba of sorts, the reddish butter chicken here is the epitome of a rich dish, for it comes laden with an
indulgent dose of cream and butter.
At Jai Jawan (Andheri- Lokhandwala and Khar West).
Time 7 pm to 12.30am
Call 9821700036
Cost Rs 320
Small wonders
A small eatery, with no more than six tables, tucked in a lane on Hill Road, northern fare comes alive in its truest avatar. Apart from a range of tasty seafood dishes on offer, like prawn and fish koliwada, they also do a tangy butter chicken. Slightly sweet, this dish features tender chicken and is best enjoyed with stuffed aloo kulcha or soft rumalis. Thanks to its toned-down flavours it's perfect for those who can't stomach extra spicy foods.
At Pal's Fish Corner, 8, Kailash Shopping Centre, Pali Hill, Bandra West.
Time 12 pm to 3 pm; 6.30 pm to 1.30 am
Call 26002995
Cost Rs 340
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