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Keralite chef on the nuances of Onam sadya and our guide to best sadyas in town

As we celebrate Onam, a Keralite chef shares how the multi-course sadya embodies a balance of flavours, and why the underrated olan is the star of the meal. Plus, our curated guide to the best sadyas in town

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Olan

Olan

For the uninitiated, an Onam sadya can be a maze, points out chef Marina Balakrishnan, who dishes out elaborate Keralite meals through her venture Oottupura. “Onam is all about how many courses of sadya you’re offering,” says the chef. On the sadya banana leaf, every item is placed for a purpose. “It’s more than a thing of beauty; each component has a role to play. For instance, salt or uppu is served first. Why? In the old days, people used to say that you don’t want an evil eye on the banana leaf because it’s so beautiful. It’s also placed on your leaf in case you want to add salt to balance the flavours,” she illustrates. 

Chef Marina BalakrishnanChef Marina Balakrishnan

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