160-year old puri fix in new avatar

Pancham Puriwala, CST's landmark restaurant, is back after a complete makeover to keep up with the times. The menu, however, still includes familiar favourites -- Puri Bhaji and Masala Puri

Pancham Puriwala, CST's landmark restaurant, is back after a complete makeover to keep up with the times. The menu, however, still includes familiar favouritesu00a0-- Puri Bhaji and Masala Puri

On the occasion of Akshaya Tritiya on Friday, a day considered auspicious to launch new ventures, Mumbai's 160-year old restaurant Pancham Puriwala threw open its doors to eager patrons after four weeks and six days of downing shutters. On March 31, this popular Puri Bhaji joint a stone's throw away from Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, shut down for renovation. When it re-opened, the formerly dingy dimly-lit eatery was swathed in gleaming marble, stainless steel furniture and new light fixtures brightening up dark nooks.

After a short pooja at 8.30 am, the staff went about setting up the tables and set the kitchen in motion. Within two hours, the first batch of puris was hauled out of a giant kadhai, as customers began to pour in. "We are running a little late today," co-owner Akshay Sharma apologised. But his regulars didn't mind -- they were only too happy that Pancham was back in business.

Earlier this year, when the eatery's weatherworn signboard was torn down, there were rumours that it was winding up, or worse, being sold off. Sharma, who oversaw the renovation, says, "Everyday, at least 15 people would walk up to me and ask in a worried tone what had happened." Just as narrates that story, a lady walks up to the counter and asks, "Chalu ho gaya? (You are back in business?) I'll return with my husband for lunch."

People come from Kolkata, Benaras and Delhi. In fact, in north
India, Aloo Bhopla and Masala Puri (also known as Bedmi Puri
or Kachori) is served on auspicious occasions. Akshay Sharma
(far right) with brothers Sandeep (in green kurta) and Anupamu00a0u00a0
PICS/Shadab Khan

Pancham Puriwala's story is one that is intertwined with the history of Mumbai. Even before the first train chugged out of Victoria Terminus (now CST) in 1853, Panchamdas Sharma, who had arrived from Agra, set up a tiny joint selling piping hot Puris with Aloo Bhaji. The tiny shack became popular as Pancham Puriwala, and the name stuck. Over the years, it grew into a restaurant serving the most authentic UP-style Puri Bhaji and Masala Puri at modest prices. Today, the restaurant is managed by the sixth generation -- brothers Sandeep, Anupam and Akshay.

The fare is simple, but the taste, genuine. A bite of the Masala Puri (served with Aloo Bhopla, a potato-pumpkin curry) will remind you of the tiny by-lanes of Benaras where this is a breakfast staple. A major chunk of Pancham's clientele is from the North. "I have people coming from Kolkata, Benaras and Delhi. They drop by to taste familiar food. In fact, in north India, Aloo Bhopla and Masala Puri (also known as Bedmi Puri or Kachori) is served on auspicious occasions," says Singh.

If you haven't been here before, he recommends you try the Deluxe or Semi Deluxe Thali that come with five varieties of vegetables, a bowl of Raita, and Masala Puri.u00a0By the time our chat with Singh wound up, it was close to lunchtime, and it seemed like Pancham had never shut down. Local merchants, office-goers, couples and labourers streamed into the khao-piyo-khisko joint, and the waiters found their groove flitting between the kitchen counter and tables.

The book of Pancham's legends holds a line about Mahatma Gandhi enjoying a meal here once. Singh has served trade unionist and Left leader George Fernandes, who was a regular, as well as late journalist Behram Contractor (or Busybee, as foodies might remember him). "We believe in serving everybody, whether rich or poor, with equal respect. That's what makes everyone comfortable here," says Singh. Taking a look around, you realise, you couldn't agree more.

What's new
Apart from the favouritesu00a0-- Puri Bhaji, Masala Puri, Kadhi Rice and Chhole Puriu00a0-- in its new avatar, Pancham Puriwala will also serve typical north Indian chaatu00a0 like Pakodi Chaat, Aloo Chaat and Moong Chaat, after 4 pm. Flavoured lassis and seasonal specialities like Kairi Panna and Aam Ras have also been added to the menu

Mid Day at Pancham Puriwala
One wall of the newly renovated eatery holds press clippings of the coverage that Pancham Puriwala has bagged over the years. Part of the spread includes an article by Behram Contractor that appeared in Mid Day dated May 19, 1983, calling the establishment the 'best puri bhaji place in town'. We doubt anyone else dares to stake claim to that tag even 28 years later.

Even before the first train chugged out of Victoria Terminus (now Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus) in 1853, Panchamdas Sharma, who had arrived from Agra, set up a tiny joint selling piping hot Puris with Aloo Bhaji. Over the years, it grew into a restaurant serving the most authentic UP-style Puri Bhaji and Masala Puri at modest prices.