A plate full of India

It started off with idli-vada and later served scrumptious Gujju-Rajasthani fare. Now, Crawford's Rajdhani has gone pan-India with its thali. Though still beaten out of the same metal, the Kansa thalis at Revival Indian Thali, as the restaurant is now called, serves up a different Indian cuisine every month

It started off with idli-vada and later served scrumptious Gujju-Rajasthani fare. Now, Crawford's Rajdhani has gone pan-India with its thali. Though still beaten out of the same metal, the Kansa thalis at Revival Indian Thali, as the restaurant is now called, serves up a different Indian cuisine every month

Dal Bati Choorma, Pithode, Gatte, Panch Mel Sabzi, Ghevar and Soan Halwa were some of the dishes included on the platter that Ashutosh Gowarikar's Mallika-e-Hindustan, Jodhaa, ostensibly cooked for the Jahanpanah.


The Gujarati Makai nu Khichu, the Rajasthani Dal Bati Choorma,
the Marathi Watanachya Karanjya and the Kashmiri Karela fight
for space on this thali available at Revivalu00a0 Indian Thali, which is
served with mukhwas and paan in a wooden box or tabak (left).
PICs/Santosh Nagwekar

Wet-nurse Maham Anga wasn't nearly the only one who was suspicious -- women in the audience could be seen shaking their heads in disbelief -- "Who looks like that after a whole morning spent slaving over a hot stove!" Well, you could too, if you knew Jodhaa's secret -- Crawford Market's Rajdhani, the 63 year-old restaurant that is famous for its Gujarati and Rajasthani thalis, that delivered the food to the film sets.

Humble origins
Begun as a South Indian eatery in 1947 by Kamlesh Barot's father and uncle, Ishwar Bhavan became Rajdhani in 1988. Six months ago, Barot thought it was time for another change and Revival Indian Thali was born, complete with new Indian cuisines, four maharajas (cooks), one each for the four regions of India. Each daily thali has 30 dishes from a mix of cuisines. While Rajasthani and Gujarati fare remain constant, the thali incorporates flavours of the month. This month, Benarsi and Sindhi dishes have made their way to the thali. In all, 30 Indian cuisines will be served over a period of one year.

"The new thali includes the ghar ka khana of various Indian communities. Parsi, Bengali, Assamese, Kashmiri, Benarasi and Sindhi food, are some of the many cuisines that we're introducing in 30 rotating menus," Barot says, as he points out that although chef Anshuman Nadkarni is in charge of devising recipes, a taste panel of experts from the specific communities will approve each dish.

"Sindhi Kadhi has to be cooked on a slow fire overnight," Barot shares, telling us that this is one of the most arduous preparations they've included, even as he stresses, "Our main focus is on creating healthy balanced meals so each platter is planned to include items that complement each other in accordance with the principles of Ayurveda." Bihari Bharwan Mirch (a stuffed chilli vegetable dish), the tastiest dish on the Thali we sampled (Rs 249), was the sole new dish on the day's menu.

Watch and learn
Inspired by a group of German diners, who were seen stuffing rice into Puris in his restaurant a while back, Barot has installed mini TV screens on each table to explain what each item on the menu is and how it's meant to be eaten. "People are now increasingly curious about the cuisines of different Indian communities," Barot explains.

Let the festivities begin
Next month, he plans to hold an aam ras festival, where every dish on the thali, which will include the Marathi cuisine, will have some variation of the fruit in it. For the monsoon, Barot plans to hold a Dhongar festival with smoked 'Dum' dishes from Kashmir and the North East. It's also worthwhile to drop by for old attractions. The chilled aam-ras was a genuine treat and it's interesting to watch the smoked chhaas being prepared. For the latter, a trolley is wheeled to your table where spices are set on hot coals and chhaas is poured into metal glasses, in which these fumes are trapped.

Revival is located opposite Mangaldas Market and Crawford Market, on Sheikh Memon Street
Call: 23426919 (Open from noon to 4 pm; 8 pm to 11 pm)
On weekdays, the thali costs
Rs 249. On weekends, it costs
Rs 270 (with unlimited desserts)

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