India's only authentic Kosher bakery has been running for fifteen years in Worli, with the belief that food is a way to keep the flock together. Sunday MiD DAY dropped by at this community treasure trove for a slice of all things Jewish
India's only authentic Kosher bakery has been running for fifteen years in Worli, with the belief that food is a way to keep the flock together. Sunday MiD DAY dropped by at this community treasure trove for a slice of all things Jewish
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On 26/11, when Chabad House in Colaba was attacked, in one of the exchanges recorded between the terrorists and their handlers, the boss asked one terrorist holed up inside if he had eaten. To this he replied in the negative. The handler reassured him that he could eat the food available there since it's Kosher; its standards take care of halal," says Sharon Galsurkar.
The Kosher Bakery housed on the ground floor of the ORT India building
at Worli is perhaps the only one in India to make strictly Kosher products.
PICS/ PRATHIK PANCHAMIA
In case you didn't believe him, he says he has the the telephonic exchange recorded on tape.
Galsurkar is head of the kitchen division at ORT India's five-storied office that stands on plush Worli Hill Road. We have just bitten into a scrumptious slice of freshly baked Banana Walnut cake that's emergedu00a0 out of an oven at India's only authentic Kosher bakery that Garsulkar oversees. Kosher foods refer to those items that conform to the regulations of the Jewish Halakhic calendar law framework.
"There are other Jewish bakeries in India, like Kolkata's Nahoum's, but we make strictly kosher products."
Strange then, how this culinary treasure has gone unnoticed. "We are not into marketing; ours is a charitable organisation. Besides, we have limited manpower," he says, not particularly anxious about an untapped customer base in the upper middle-class neighbourhood.
India and the Jews
An hour earlier, we were seated upstairs inside Galsurkar's office that offers flashes of the Arabian Sea, and the Bene Israeli is happy to give us a crash course on the India-Jewish connection. "India is home to three main Jew sects: the Bene Israelis, the Baghdadi and the Cochinese (divided into Ancient and White Jews). Bene Israelis have the largest numbers; over 3,000 in Mumbai, Thane and Kalyan. There are about 50 Baghdadi Jews, about 40 Ancient Jews and barely 12 White Jews. In all, nearly 4,000 Jews live in India. Of these, 75 per cent live in the Mumbai-Thane belt, followed by Pune, Ahmedabad and the Konkan."
Garluskar breaks into a smile when he remembers to add: "A few years ago, a lost sect of Jews, the Bene Menasha, was found in Manipur."
In the late 1880s, ORT (Originally, Organisation for Rehabilitation through Training/ renamed, Organisation for Resource and Technological Training) was set up to help poor, unskilled Jews in Russia. One of the several layers of charity in Judaism includes the practice of helping others sustain themselves.
ORT's worldwide network helps the less-skilled and underprivileged find jobs. "Our India chapter began in the 1960s, when a German Jewish businessman, Gerard Gabriel discovered that while skilled, trained Indian Jews were heading to Israel, their rural counterparts lagged behind. These were farmers."
Gabriel approached ORT to launch the Mumbai centre, kicking off baking courses. Today, the centre runs courses in computers, hairdressing, kindergarten and teacher's training, apart from a Kosher kitchen and bakery.
The ORT principle isn't Jew-inclusive. Most courses today are dominated by non-Jewish applicants. Hebrew and modern Judaism are taught here too and research scholars, delegations and visitors from Israel use this Worli facility.
The Kosher challenge
The ground floor houses the 400 square feet bakery; a clean, functional space with two ovens. "We have separate utensils and tables for milk and pavre," reminds Galsurkar, while introducing us to Amrita, Shifron and Amos, the bakery staff. Amas is a Manipuri Jew, who has honed his culinary skills at the bakery.
A batch of five Banana Walnut cakes wait to be slid into the ovens. Shifron carefully sifts the maida flour on a kitchen table. "Kosher forbids the consumption of insects, additives like colouring, artificial flavours," says Garluskar through the bars of a large window.
The oven is hot, and the genial, bearded educator is ready to share more on Kosher and its logic in the modern world. "Eating of Kosher is related to holiness. We believe our sustainability is dependent on what we eat. Food plays a vital role in building one's identity. As Jews, we practice the Sabbath and follow the Kosher. Nowadays, non-Jews also insist on eating Kosher foods due to health reasons."
The Kosher kitchen caters to visiting delegations and Jews on tour too. Incidentally, Galsurkar was invited to Delhi in 2003 to oversee Kosher operations during Israeli Prime Minister Ariel Sharon's visit.
Baking is far easier than teaching, and Garluskar, who is also head of department of Jewish education at ORT, admits that it's a Herculean task to educate young Jews about the benefits of Kosher. "The younger generation is tempted to eat outside. When I teach Talmar (study of logic), I've noticed how they aren't keen on a strict pattern. They want to feel enlightened in a freer way."
So how does the young Jew refrain from dining at the Taj himself? "I'd run out business, otherwise!" he grins.
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At: Kosher Bakery, ORT India Building, 68, Worli Hil Road, Worli Hill Estate, behind Worli Dairy. Call: 24968426, 24962350. Open: Wednesdays and Fridays. For orders: Call a day in advance
DID YOU KNOW?
Nearly 1,500 years ago, the forefathers of today's Bene Israelis landed in Navgaon, Alibag from Israel. They were scattered across Maharashtra. They were lost and isolated among the local population. Their Kosher practices were noticed by a few travelling rabbis, resulting in their being identified as Jews. At the time, the Cochinese Jews played a big role in bringing them into the fold.
MASHEED TO MASJID
The stretch from Jacob Circle to today's Masjid Bunder locality had six synagogues. The Hindi and Marathi boards at Masjid railway station read "Masheed Bunder". Jews refer to their synagogue as Mashed; that's how the name emerged and has remained till date.
(Information courtesy: Sharon Galsurkar)
KOSHER BAKERY LIST
Caramel Cookies: Rs 75/kg
Coconut Cookies: Rs 90/kg
Caramel & Nuts Cookies: Rs 130/kg
Nankhaties: Rs 85/kg
Jeera Butter: Rs 55/250 gms
Veg Puff: Rs 8/piece
Breadsticks: Rs 30/500 g
Donuts: Rs 6/piece
Jam Donuts: Rs 8/piece
Sugar donuts: Rs 6/piece
Bread (Pizza): Rs 5/piece
Bread (Pita): Rs 4/piece
Cake (Caramel): Rs 150/kg
Cake (Caramel with Dry fruits): Rs 180/kg
Cake (Date & Walnut): Rs 180/kg
Cake (Fruit): Rs 180/kg
Cake (Banana & Walnut): Rs 170/kg
Birthday Cake (with icing): Rs 230/kg
Cup cakes (Coconut): Rs 4.50/piece
Jam Sweet Rolls:u00a0Rs 40/kg
Coconut Macaroons: Rs 6/piece
What is kosher?
Kosher is not a style of cooking. Kosher foods are those that conform to the regulations of the Jewish Halakhic calendar law framework. There are three basic divisions: milk and milk products, meat products and the rest (referred to as Pavre). Meat cannot be eaten alongside milk -- if you've consumed meat, there must be a gap of six hours before you take milk. It is forbidden to consume blood of animals -- they need to be slaughtered through an elaborate practice called Shechita, only then is it deemed fit for food.u00a0
Kashruth is the term given to the practice of following Kosher. Jews follow 613 obligations, of which Kosher is one.