Keep aside your fears of getting bland British food, the menu at Kothi Mem is as spicy as any Punjabi joint

Keep aside your fears of getting bland British food, the menu at Kothi Mem is as spicy as any Punjabi joint

The philosophy of enjoying a meal at a restaurant is similar to dealing with an egg. Approach it from the outside and it breaks, but if you let things unfold as they should, you get a chicken. Our woes start when we enter an eatery assuming entertaining us is its sole responsibility. We conveniently tend to forget that it is also ouru00a0 conduct that completes the circle. The first thing that strikes us about Kothi Mem, the restaurant in Rajouri Garden which takes inspiration from the British era, is that they take indulging the guests bit seriously. And they do it regardless of the unappreciative crowd every Indian restaurant encounters once in a while.

The interiors are inspired by the British period

What's in a name
The name might sound utterly nonsensical, but the British Raj-inspired hospitality pampers your senses without burdening your pocket like the colonial rulers did.

The d ufffdcor is sublime, with pre-independence photographs adorning the wall, giving you glimpses of the days during the rule of Company Bahadur. Divided into three dining areasu00a0-- the Mem, the Maharaja and Purani Dilli -- Kothi Mem offers the privacy that most of us crave while eating out in Delhi.

Sobering effect
But the bar, even after six months of being operational, stays modest. Beyond a Johnnie Walker (Black or Red Label), the imported segment loses fizz. The IMFL tickles down to names like Teachers and Black Dog.
The usual cocktails like Fuzzy Navels didn't seem appealing and re-christening an old cocktail like Virgin Marry (sic) into Still a Virgin doesn't always translate to newfound stimulation. Gori Mem Sahib, (orange juice, vanilla ice cream with Cinnamon) is a mocktail worth trying, but with less cinnamon. Wines in this whisky-guzzling neighbourhood, the owner claims, are yet to be taking seriously.

Worth the salt
The food, however, is a different experience. The restaurant's tagline 'The British Way' is a misnomer, which I believe doesn't help the joint get much business, though the menu leaning on Punjabi cuisines does. Jhoomta Kukkad, the dark rum marinated roast chicken starter, teamed with old Johnnie boy starts the roll. Add to it the unexpected vegetarian starter, Clay Oven Malai Broccoli and the swing sets off.

Makkhan Tamatar ka Murga for the main course is a first-rate choice. Fashionably known Butter Chicken today, this dish has come a long way since the Mughal era and there are many varieties you can sink your teeth into. Here, it's the Makhani or the sauce that makes it different. The tomato pure ufffd and the spices -- which are grinded in-houseu00a0-- are the restaurant's trade secret.

The Gosht Rogan Josh I tasted would have been better off if left in the seasoned hands of a Kashmiri waza or a purani Delhi bawarchi. Khumb aur Paalak ki Sabzi was again a surprise. While the button mushrooms was the same as everywhere, it's the spinach which makes or breaks this dish.

Here, the dry yet soft texture makes it a perfect culinary companion to a Peshawari naan or Hari Mirch ki Roti. The humble Peeli Dal Tadka is also agreeable if you aren't a cynical neighbourhood dal critic.
In the desserts section, Flambe Gulab Jamun is a syrupy way to end your meal, but it was the Panchratan ice creamu00a0-- an in-house specialityu00a0-- which again missed the mark.

Kothi Mem
Food: Healthy
Service: Excellent
Ambience: Good
At: Shivaji Enclave, Rajouri Garden
Timings: 11am to midnight
Ring: 45678456
Meal for two: Rs 1,000 plus taxes