Grain teaser

Sultans of Spice might want to flaunt its kebabs and curries, but we would go there again for its mutton biryani

Sultans of Spice might want to flaunt its kebabs and curries, but we would go there again for its mutton biryani

The city has many restaurants serving north-Indian fare, but the legendary cuisine of old Delhi, the rustic Punjabi flavours of Amritsar and the rich taste of Afghani kebabs and curries at Sultans of Spice, a new restaurant in the foodie paradise of Koramangala will make you believe that the city does have room for one more.

The Sultans of Spice blends food from the three great cities of Delhi, Amritsar and Kabul with three famed strains of cuisines: Afghani, Old Dilli and Punjabi. It was quite a Herculean task picking from the exhaustive menu listing a range of royal cuisines right from Kabul's famous Damiyan food street to Purani Dilli and Punjabi khaana.



Walk in to a spacious hall with warm lights, earthy tones and soothing Jagjit Singh ghazals. 'La pila de' greeted me as I chose to sit in one of the corner tables to get a panoramic view of the restaurant and soak in the dramatic jharokha style paintings and distinctive arches evocative of a royal dining experience.

Order everything the way the chef would have it. It's well worth the wait. Some of the must try starters include Navratan Seekh Kabab (Rs 180), a seekh made of exotic vegetables, dry fruits and nuts and the Chutney aur Paneer ke Pakore (Rs 180), an infallible tangy chutney paneer pakoras. Just the thing you need on a rainy evening in Bangalore. Nothing can match that.

Stay miles away from the Dwarka Nath Papdi Chaat (Rs 110). This is a disgrace on the famed chaats of Delhi. The chaat was dry and lacked the zestful tanginess, with very limited helpings of the chutney and yoghurt to spike it. Thankfully I had my Dilli ka Thug to get me over the chaat fiasco.
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The Dilli ka Thug (Rs 300), a classic Cuba libre was a chatpata variation of dark rum spiked with chaat masala, lime and rock salt that came together in tangy flavours.
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The extensive bar menu at SOS features some innovative cocktails like Imli-Talli, a Bacardi cocktail, Phatka Jhatka, a frozen spiced cardamom iced tea with scotch and Pretty Gin-Ta, a frozen gin with black grape juice.

The main course menu lists Guncho Keema, Paneer Tikka Multani, Afghani Gosth Stew and Burrah Kaliyan, Sarson Da Saag, Butter Chicken Makhan Singh Da and Murgh ka Bharta.

Like a true Punjabi I had to scoop some Dal Sultani with naan (Rs 180), black dal with loads of butter and cream, but I felt it was a tad short on the taste. Vegetariansu00a0 must try the Amchoori Bhindi (Rs 180), ladyfingers stuffed with amchoor masala and dry cooked with button onions.

The Afghani Mutton Biryani (Rs 260) was quite addictive with oh-so-tender chunks of mutton. I have my doubts on whether their recipes are handed down from generations, but it's a great effort nevertheless.u00a0

I tried my best to ward off any guilt pangs that tried knocking on my doors by focusing my attention to Jagjit's renderings.
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I didn't have any room to spare, but could not pass up on a bite of stuffed gulab jamuns oozing on a bed of mango nectar called the Sultanat-e-jamun (Rs 110) here.

At The Blu Petal, 60, Jyothi Niwas College Road, 5th block, Koramangala.
Call 4343 1800 / 99804 57763.
Meal for two Approx Rs 1, 200.

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