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On the spice trail

Updated on: 10 June,2009 08:58 AM IST  | 
Namita Gupta |

From kebabs to shorbas, and biryani to nihari, Rakabdar has cracked the secret code of Awadhi cuisine

On the spice trail

From kebabs to shorbas, and biryani to nihari, Rakabdar has cracked the secret code of Awadhi cuisine

Rakabdar, the new fine dining restaurant in town, gets its name from the royal inventors of secret recipes of the courts of Awadh and Lucknow.

The restaurant, opposite Acropolis on Hosur Road, has dim lighting, which can prove annoying when you are trying to decipher the menu. The royal blue and gold colour scheme makes the 4,000 square ft restaurant look smaller than it is. Spread over over two floors, it can seat 108 people.

Contemporary twist

Awadhi cuisine's finest contribution to the culinary heritage of India is its signature dum style of cooking. Dishes are cooked in their own juices onu00a0 slow coal or wood fire. The nafaasat (finesse) and nazaakat (delicateness) are achieved through a magical blending of spices that are slow cooked.

Awadhi master chefs are also known for their unmatched kebabs, aromatic biryanis, robust nihari and irresistible desserts.

Rakabdar lives up to its promise and serves specialties like Sikandari Raan, which is leg of baby lamb marinated overnight in malt vinegar and spices and chargrilled on a slow fire; Seekh Kebab Imtiazi, which skewered lamb mince mixed with cassia powder, mace and kashipur chili and charcoal grilled; Murgh Rizala or boneless chicken, stuffed with herbs and green chillies, dum cooked in a gravy of yoghurt with a hint of almonds and garnished with egg; Malai Jhinga, a dish of prawns marinated in cheese and hung yoghurt and flash cooked in the tandoor;u00a0u00a0 Lucknowi Nihari and Dum Gosht Lucknowi Biryani.u00a0

I began my meal with a Shorba Imtiazi salmon, calamari and prawns cooked with ginger, lime leaves and orange juice, which was light and appetizing. My Awadhi Kebab Platter comprised the tikka, the galawati and the seekh. My vegetarian companion went gaga over the Dahi Ke Kebab, which was made with yoghurt spiced and rolled in soft bread and deep fried; Tandoori Khumb or button mushrooms marinated in tandoori spices and char
grilled, Paneer Dudhiya Kebab which is cottage cheese, stuffed with spiced mashed potatoes and shallow fried.

Being a fish fanatic, I could not resist the Mahi Mussallam seer fillet marinated in garlic, ginger and spices and dum cooked in the tandoor. I also tried the signature Dal Qureshi black urad dal which was loaded with butter and fresh cream. One mouthful wasu00a0 enough for me to realize that I am easy prey to temptation. The Lucknowi Nihari is the chef's special recipe for qorma made with lamb shanks, dum cooked in their own cardamom tinged juices and finished with saffron. But it is the Dum Gosht Lucknowi Biryani that reigns supreme. As you push open the dough purdah, a burst of fragrant steam rushes out. Inside the pot, the long-grained rice, streaked golden with saffron, is cooked to perfection. And under it all, succulent meat simmers gently, suffusing the entire dish with its spice-smothered flavour. It's easy to see why Dum cooking was a favourite with kings and princes for centuries, and why it is undoubtedly the favourite among foodies the world over.

On another visit, I sampled Mirch Baingan Ka Salan, large whole green chilies and brinjals simmered in a velvet smooth gravy of yoghurt, tamarind, coconut and peanuts; and Subz Miloni, a mu00e9lange of seasonal vegetables cooked in a smooth green puree of spinach and fenugreek. Yet another stellar preparation is the Guncha-wa-Qeema comprising florets of cauliflower prepared with dices of capsicum and tomatoes, cooked in a smooth tomato and dry fenugreek gravy.

On the chef's insistence we tried the Qubani Ka Meetha, spiced Afghani apricots stewed with cinnamon and saffron and served with malai. Burp!


Where: Rakabdar, 7, Bhuvanappa Layout, Hosur Road.
Ph: 4343 1111 / 4343 1100
Wallet factor: Rs 1500 plus taxes for a meal for two

Melt-in-the-mouth Mexican fare

Chili's is perfect for a fun evening with friends. The restaurant, which is part of a popular chain in the Middle East and the US, is strictly for those who love their food.
u00a0
Skipping the Classical Margarita, I opted for the Presidente Margarita, which had three shots of tequila, triple sec and lemon juice by virtue of a whole can placed next to your salt-rimmed glass. Try the Triple Play with your drink. This combo of chicken crispers, boneless chicken wings and south western spring rolls comes with a variety of dips and sauces. The avocado guacamole and the ranch and honey mustard were amazing. One plate of Triple Play is good enough for four hungry persons!u00a0

I chose the Quesadilla Explosion, a salad which had fajita-marinated chicken with corn, mixed cheese, diced tomatoes and crispy tortilla strips, and came garnished with smoky ranch drizzle and cheese quesadilla wedges.

The grilled quesadillas are loaded with melting cheese....yum!u00a0 Vegetarians can opt for the salad with paneer instead of chicken.

The Guiltless Grills page on the menu got us excited. The Blackened Fish comprised fish fillet with peppercorn and came on a bed of tortilla chips, accompanied by rice and beans. The fish was perfectly done, but when I mentioned that I found it bland, I got a plate of chillies with my order! My companion ordered the Classic Chicken Fajita, which is fajita-marinated grilled chicken served with onions and bell peppers. The big chunks of grilled chicken and shrimps made it a hearty dish.

For dessert, it was Molten Chocolate sinful and satisfying. The hard chocolate on the ice cream makes it interesting and the texture of the brownie base is quite out of the world.u00a0

We were told that everything at the restaurant complete furniture, cutlery, glasses and even lamp shades were transported all the way from the US of A.

Where: Chili's Grill & Bar, Phoenix Idiom
Above Papa John's Pizza, Airport Road. Ph: 4097 1165
Wallet factor: Rs 2,000 for a meal for two
Tip: The 12 per cent service charge is included in the bill. Also, the portions are quite huge, so order with caution.



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