Honest review of this progressive pan-Asian restaurant in Bandra

This swish restaurant at Pali Hill aces on the decor front but lacks in the dining division

First Nido in 2013, then The Korner House by Vicky Ratnani in 2016 occupied 21 Union Park, Pali Hill. Then, in 2018, Los Angeles’ chef Esdras Ochoa charmed us with Mexican fare at Sancho’s. Then, in 2021, Restaurateur Abhay Raj Kohli turned the space into a Latin-Asian fusion—the first version of Tori (with a single i), wooing us with murals of geishas and juicy tuna ceviches. In December 2023, with the relaunch of Torii (with double i), the door mellowed down to dark green, and so did the food.

Non-Veg Gyoza Selection

It is yet another presentation of progressive pan-Asian fare that we already have access to at every other mid-level restaurant. The launch attraction was Gauri Khan, who stepped in as Kohli’s first-time partner-owner, along with Tanaaz Bhatia, Founder and Managing Director of Bottomline Media has designed the 87-seater space spread across 4,500 sq feet and applied a minimalist undertone with easy, breathing spaces. The semi-open separation between indoor and al fresco gives a layered seating expanse.

Shibuya Toast

We turned our anonymous reservation into a BFF outing and were asked to cough up Rs 3,000 as a fee, ensuring the minimum billing was Rs 1500 per person and that a no-show meant guaranteed kill-fee compensation. Fair: This norm followed now by many high-end restaurants curtails no-shows. Upon entry, the outdoor green-hued corner island bar catches your immediate attention. The space has gone under the knife so often that we reminisce about its past contours. Inside, the glass ceiling with bronze panels accentuates the space, tall artificial flora behind translucent glass, and red and grey seating—the casual outdoors with prints and textured white-washed walls adorned by framed foliage prints.

Donburi with salmon

The drinks menu, with its ant-size font, makes it challenging to figure out the base of the cocktails. And we are not entirely convinced by the server’s suggestions either. We leave the drinks for another day (once the font improves) and focus on the menu led by culinary director and executive chef Stefan Gadit, whose last stint in Mumbai was Aditi Dugar’s Sage and Saffron before he moved to Dubai. We start with the evening’s first dish—eggplant (Rs 550), an appetiser from the charcoal grill section. It is executed with a yuzu miso glace, fermented garlic, and seaweed crisps. The discs sit on labneh, which lacks the texture of Greek yoghurt and has more of a dahi raita consistency.

Eggplant. Pics/Shadab Khan

Next, we go for an extensive haul of the Torii non-veg gyoza selection (Rs 1,200; 8 pieces, four variations). Sadly, the coating of the gyoza is so slumpy and thick that it leaves a rubbery mouthful after every bite. In taste, Thai chicken mushi-gyoza with fresh flavours of lemongrass, galangal and basil is decent. The prawn and chive mushi-gyoza in XO sauce hits the mark with classic execution, and the spicy chicken mushi has a tobanjan and soy vinegar pungency. Our favourite is the pork yaki-gyoza, reminding us of a serving at a roadside joint we had on a trip to Darjeeling.

The Donburi tepanyaki (Rs 1500) looks appetising for mains, and we opt for salmon, which we are informed is a small strip, not the whole fillet. We agreed, and a colourful bowl of fried rice packed with corn, edamame, pickled bell peppers, sliced cucumbers, and the fish sliver was served. It was garnished with cut chives, seed weed, and mayo drizzle. The fish, we felt, was overcooked. A serving of chilli garlic noodles (Rs 550) douses our craving for more Asian fare. The dish hits all the right notes with light soy, garlic chips, and crunchy cabbage.

We’re feeling dessert, and the Shibuya toast crème chantilly, honey ice cream, and macerated berries (Rs 600) call out. Disappointedly, the macerated berries were just strawberries, and the ice cream, which was supposed to be honeyed, was plain vanilla. Even so, it could have been of better quality. A few bites in, the toast with a sugar and brown butter caramelise has satisfied our sweet tooth and granted us a sugar high. While the overall meal hit the expected marks, it could have served a more refined experience, as expected from a high-end space. Like they say, any restaurant renovation should begin in the kitchen.

What: Torii
At: 21, Pali Hill Road, Union Park, Khar West
When: 12 PM-4 PM, 7 PM -1 AM
Call: 9833373888
Rating : OKAY
Torii didn’t know we were there. Sunday Mid-day reviews anonymously and pays for meals. 

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