The sober drunk eat

How do you create a boozy dessert without alcohol? Two chefs who cracked the code say how

Whether it’s chocolate mousse infused with Baileys or a lusciously-textured Bourbon brownie, spiked desserts are twice as much fun as their sober colleagues. To ensure teetotalers don’t lose out, chefs are now whipping up “boozy” treats minus the spirit. Because the infusion of alcohol substitutes in baking can be tricky, we reached out to two experts to tell us how you can have your dessert and drink it too.

‘It took a lot of trial and error’
Chef Bianca Manik, founder and head pastry chef, Blanchette

Chef Prateek Bakhtiani making macarons and cake with alcohol substitutes at Ether, Wadala

While training at Le Cordon Bleu, Paris, Chef Bianca Manik experimented frequently with boozy desserts. “I loved the depth and warmth that alcohol components brought [to my desserts].” Once back in India, Manik realised that due to restrictions in using alcohol as well as obtaining the required licenses, she would not be able to offer liquor desserts at Santacruz East store, Blanchette. “Initially, I was a bit hesitant to use non-alcoholic substitutes; I felt that they would not taste the same as the real thing. I experimented with non-alcoholic beer in cake as well as alcohol-free champagne in mousse. Neither made the cut. A lot of trial and error went into getting it right.”

One of his go-to options to replicate the flavour of gin is Seedlip, a warm, aromatic blend of spices

She cracked the formula with a “whiskey” and dark chocolate combination, now one of her bestsellers. Here, she uses cocoa sponge, a non-alcoholic whiskey creme that contains vanilla, caramel and paprika. While picking the substitutes, Manik says you must ensure that the ingredient comes as close to the actual flavour as possible. “With our whiskey and chocolate cake, I needed the substitute to impart notes of vanilla, caramel and malt in addition to the flavour of alcohol and peat that whiskey imparts.”

‘Never overdo it’
Chef Prateek Bakhtiani, Ether

Chef Bianca Manik making a whiskey cake. Pic/Atul Kamble

Most substitutes that attempt to replicate the alcohol or ethanol flavour of liquor are usually a lost cause, thinks  Prateek Bakhtiani, founder of artisanal chocolate brand Ether. “They all tend to taste incredibly artificial. That’s why it’s pointless to try and get a vodka substitute. Most other spirits get their primary flavour from other distillates [juniper for gin, or peat and rye for whiskey], so using other expressions of those flavours can hint at the alcohol without having to use the alcohol itself.” To replicate the effect, he uses pu’er and lapsang, tea blends that add intense smoky notes of whiskey;  Seedlip, a warm, aromatic blend of spices, for gin; and barrel-aged coffee and tea for notes of barrelled spirits such as whiskey and rum.  

Using a paste that has vanilla, paprika and caramel

Rum oil-based flavouring is kosher too, which he believes is the most successful alcohol flavouring substitute. If none of these suggestions impress, you can try using agave vinegar in small amounts that offer notes of tequila when paired with citrus. One of his popular offerings is the tiramisu with barrel-aged coffee. “It tastes like it has got aged spirit in it but those notes come just from the barrel aging of the coffee.” While achieving the spirit-y effect is not overtly challenging, Bakhtiani feels it is not rewarding either.  “You have to cheapen the intention of the dish by having to replace an important ingredient with a substitute that can be great, but will never be perfect”. What he looks for though is elegance in the flavour, given that using too much or too little of an alcohol substitute can “cheapen” the balance of the dessert. A word of caution to those attempting this. “Don’t overdo it! Realise the limitations of the substitute that you are using and make sure you are being clever to conceal those limitations.”

Substitutes worth considering

Bourbon – 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons of non-alcoholic vanilla extract.
Brandy – Water, apple cider or apple juice, diluted peach or apricot syrups.
Champagne – Ginger ale, sparkling cranberry juice, or sparkling white grape juice.
Triple Sec – Orange juice concentrate, orange juice, orange zest or orange marmalade.

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