Lunchbox: Two Mumbai women chefs on family, being entrepreneurs and navigating the industry

Restaurateurs and chefs Ankita Fernandes and Freny Fernandes share more than a surname. The owners of two Bandra eateries ring in an early Christmas, bonding over their love for family, being women entrepreneurs and navigating Mumbai’s F&B streetscape

For Ankita Fernandes and Freny Fernandes, food is their shared love language. If they’re not at each other’s restaurants, polishing off fish curry-rice or petit gâteau, the two chefs can be found bingeing at their favourite Asian eateries. It helps that they are both running their restaurants — Fresh Catch by Francis and Monèr — in the heart of Bandra, so they’re always each other’s plus-one for a quick work break or a movie date.

“We have this mutual love for food, our restaurants and our families. We’ve grown closer in the past year,” quips Freny, while Ankita nods along, adding, “And we try to motivate each other to work out!” The duo burst into laughter which echoes throughout our chat with them at a wine and coffee bar in Bandra, as they open up about their journeys. Tune in to mid-day’s YouTube channel to watch the full interview.

Mushroom duxelle croquette

Meanwhile, here are some edited excerpts from the interview.

Sukanya to Freny: You’ve come a long way from Vasai to New York to Mumbai. Did you always know you wanted to be a pastry chef?
No, I was actually doing BMM from St Xavier’s. At that time, I started baking seriously. My college friends started loving my bakes, and I began realising that I love feeding people. As soon as I graduated, I decided to go to the US, which led me to some interesting opportunities at the Michelin Starred-Daniel, Four Seasons at Disney World, and Noma in Copenhagen. I learnt a lot from Noma, which prompted me to think of my own dessert bar. I wanted to experience that connection with guests, while I whip up desserts for them. 

Sukanya to Ankita: For you, the inspiration was closer home, thanks to your father, the late Francis Fernandes. What was it like growing up around him?
It was not only my dad; my grandmother and aunt are my first role models. My mother enrolled me in cooking classes when I was a teen. I would prepare basic items like cookies and croquettes. But my father was always the final judge of my creations. I knew that I was inclined towards food. Dad told me that he learnt on the job, but that I should study for a more strategic outlook. And so I did, in Switzerland. The dishes — mushroom duxelle croquette, roasted garlic gnocchi,  garlic butter salmon and avocado bowl, among others — arrive.

Roasted garlic gnocchi

What is that one food memory or dish which shaped your career?
Ankita: During our days in Mahim, there would be this lean period when the kitchen would be shut. Dad and I would experiment with all kinds of snacks — sandwiches, poha, canapés and the like. He would never stick to the traditional recipe and the result would still be delicious. You can be so creative in the kitchen; the food in the end is a reflection of who you are, your hard work. That rubbed off on me.
Freny: Watching my mother bake, beat sugar and butter with her hand, and the smell of fake vanilla essence got me hooked. Later, when I started baking, crème caramel was that one defining dish. It’s such a simple dish, but I went through so many recipes. It was a kind of precursor to this crazy scientist that I am now!
Ankita: You know, this is what makes us both very hands-on as restaurateurs. We’re always in the kitchen cooking, or chatting up guests.  
Freny: Yes, this is something that connects us. You don’t really see a lot of chefs or restaurateurs personally engaging with every guest. And if we’re not there, we’re checking the camera footage to keep an eye on the place! [both start giggling]

How has the experience of being women chefs and restaurateurs been so far? 
Ankita: At culinary school, I knew I wanted to be in the hot kitchen but during my internship, as the lone girl in the group, I was placed in the confectionery section. When I pointed it out, they said that they had assumed that as a girl, I would like desserts more and it would be easier. How is that easy? And why would you just assume I can’t perform in a hot kitchen? Today, too, if a woman boss says something to a male colleague, it’s perceived differently.
Freny: When I started out, sexism was very much there. Like Ankita says, people think desserts are easy. But they are not. Moreover, since I was 24 when I was planning Monèr, people started questioning me about my plans. Initially, in the kitchen, my cooks wouldn’t call me chef; they’d resort to ‘ma’am’. Now, I’ve made it a rule to brief everyone who enters my kitchen that I’m not your ma’am; you’ll call me chef. It’s something we have to deal with as businesswomen.

Garlic butter salmon and avocado bowl

Bandra is one of the most competitive landscapes for food in the city. What are the perks or challenges of running a business there? 
Freny: I always knew I wanted to open my restaurant in Bandra because there are so many good eateries here. I wanted to be part of this community. Diners in Bandra are always open to experimentation, which works in my favour, since mine is a new concept. Where else would people be open to a five-course dessert menu?
Ankita: We uprooted ourselves from Mahim, which was a very comfortable atmosphere. But yes, because people in Bandra are so open to new experiences, it’s great to chat with them about Karwari food. They want to know more about it. However, yes, rentals here are crazy. I’ve heard of some figures, and they are obnoxious! 
Freny: It’s the same as you would see in Dubai or New York!

What is Christmas like at the Fernandeses’?
Freny: It’s all about food! I have such fond memories of the house smelling of cakes and making cribs, which was my project. The eve is my favourite part — all of us in our best clothes headed to midnight Mass. In Vasai, where I grew up, there are so many old churches; my parents would take us to this light show. Then we’d come back home to a nice Christmas chicken roast. Then, next day, we’d get together with cousins and make fugias, before heading out to check out cribs in the neighbourhood. 
Ankita: In my house, the prep starts days in advance with the making of kulkuls, nevries, and other sweets. It’s a ritual to first make a cross out of the dough and fry that to check if the oil is hot enough — it’s a prayer to bless the Christmas preparation. Christmas Eve is very special; my father had this ritual to pop a bottle of champagne, which was my duty! The Christmas spread has to be really big: chicken rossa, sannas, with fish curry the next day.

Freny Fernandes (right) Ankita Fernandes

With Christmas just days away, what’s your wish/prayer for the season?
Freny: My wish is very simple: I want a vacation! [laughs] The last few years have been super hectic and crazy. I’m hoping that this Christmas some magic happens! 
Ankita: After we lost our dad, it has been my brother Adith’s and my goal to make his food be known everywhere. These recipes, masalas, all the hardwork — they’re his story. It’s my dream that everybody should know my papa’s food. 

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Quick takes

>> If not a chef, then...
Freny: I would have been in advertising.
Ankita: I would have been in the events space.

>> What’s your comfort food?
Freny: Ramen. I love a spicy bowl of ramen; I toss in whatever is in the fridge.
Ankita: Whenever I am low or sick, I go for this Konkani dish called paiz, which is Goan rice and water.

>> Favourite restaurant.
Freny: Foo and Eat Around The Corner.
Ankita: Nara Thai. The staff knows my order by heart now!

>> Favourite thing about Mumbai’s F&B industry.
Freny: The camaraderie between restaurants.
Ankita: The never-say-die attitude.

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