How did the royal families of Malwa end up using beer to clean their shikaar catch, and eventually, to flavour mutton curry? And who prompted a Goan chef in the reigning Holkar family’s palace to stuff nevries (or neories) — a coconut-jaggery-filled treat from his homeland — with corn and cheese? The White maharanis. The Western women married into these illustrious clans, and sparked off innovative culinary exchanges that also soothed their homesickness.

This Christmas, Mumbai-based chef Anuradha Joshi Medhora — the founder of Charoli Foods that attempts to revive the gastronomic heritage of royal Malwa families — is offering a lavish feast of several such dishes born out of the White maharanis’ kitchens. These women include Shrimant Akhand Saubhagyawati Maharani Sharmistha Raje Holkar also known as Nancy Ann Miller, the third wife of Maharaja Tukojirao Holkar; Margaret Branyen and Euphemia Fay Watt who were married to Maharaja Yeshwant Rao Holkar, and Sally Holkar, married to Prince Richard Holkar.